clutch dragging on 72 WR

[Charlie H]

Hi Guys
Need help on fixing my clutch dragging problems on a 72 WR. I have replaced all the discs on the clutch and have the free play down to nothing, but still drags. The engine will stall out in gear at idle with the clutch lever pulled in. What should I try next , Clutch basket ?


Thx for your help

 

[Gord]

Not sure how the 72 clutch compares to the 73, but I had the same problem with mine. I called it creeping. One time it crept up against the starting gate and wouldn't let it come down. Had to find neutral and back up. Needless to say, I was the last one out of the gate ........ which in reality didn't change my position much, as that's where I usually am at the end of the race anyhow.
I made it better by having the retainers loosened up flush with the end of the studs. Maybe even having the stud inside the retainer a thread or two. It made it a lot better, but still creeps a little. Now, I can at least hold it with the front brake and it won't stall. My next move is to try ATF.

 

[dartyppyt]

Have you guys tried putting a shim washer in to take some pressure off the springs? You can do a couple or all of them to try but not enough to make your clutch slip.

 

[auto]

Make sure the flat on the actuation shaft is not overly rounded off.It should just have a small polished radi on the edge that contacts the push rod.

 

[Vinduro]

How did the ATF work.

 

[Charlie H]

Thanks for the input guys, will try backing off the springs. I owned this same model 38 years ago and didn't have this problem.

 

[Old Geezer]

Here are some additional comments/suggestions on the topic of dragging clutches, from a similar question I asked awhile ago:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/clutch-dragging-and-adjustment-help.31671/

 

[Charlie H]

Thanks OG, were you able to get your clutch working right ?

Charlie

 

[Charlie H]

Just a follow up on my clutch problem. I pulled the clutch down for inspection and reassembled, set pressure plate springs to factory setting. The shop manual say's to turn spring nuts down 8-9 turns for a new clutch. Seems to be working fine now !

Charlie

 

[Old Geezer]

Just a follow up on my clutch problem. I pulled the clutch down for inspection and reassembled, set pressure plate springs to factory setting. The shop manual say's to turn spring nuts down 8-9 turns for a new clutch. Seems to be working fine now !

Charlie

Good news Charlie! On my '85 500CR, if I recall you just screw down the springs all the way to their stops until the bolts are tight. This bike was bought as a runner with a supposed clutch problem. Yes, it was dragging, even after cleaning all the plates. Proper adjustments and cleaning helped somewhat, but it got progressively better (as in no more drag) after just a couple-three good runs. Still a royal pain in the posterior to get into neutral at a standstill, but it appears this is a normal thing with many Hooskies.

 

[Gord]

Just a follow up on my clutch problem. I pulled the clutch down for inspection and reassembled, set pressure plate springs to factory setting. The shop manual say's to turn spring nuts down 8-9 turns for a new clutch. Seems to be working fine now !

Charlie

I'm not sure I understand what you did. (turn spring nuts down 8-9 turns). How close to flush are the spring retainers to the end of the stud?
Thanks

 

[Charlie H]

Gord
I just started the spring nuts on the studs, then took them down 8 turns total. The stud is about 1/8 from being even with the face of the nut. This on a new clutch pack

 

[Old Geezer]

Gord
I just started the spring nuts on the studs, then took them down 8 turns total. The stud is about 1/8 from being even with the face of the nut. This on a new clutch pack

So what's to keep the spring nuts from eventually backing out if not torqued down or thread locked somehow? I admit, my Husky knowledge is severely lacking, but all the Jap bikes I've run (and currently run) you just screw 'em in all the way which provides the proper spring tension.

 

[Gord]

Every two springs have a flat plate that you bend the corners up to the flat on the hex head of the retainer. (If that makes any sense).

Thanks Charlie, I'll try that next.

 

[Crashaholic]

So what's to keep the spring nuts from eventually backing out if not torqued down or thread locked somehow? I admit, my Husky knowledge is severely lacking, but all the Jap bikes I've run (and currently run) you just screw 'em in all the way which provides the proper spring tension.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Check out this exploded view of the clutch. #17 is the clutch spring, #19 is a washer, #18 is a locking plate, and #20 is the retaining nut. The locking plate spans two of the pressure plate studs. Once assembled the corner tabs of the four locking plates are bent up over the eight retaining nuts. So, turn the retaining nuts 8 to 9 turns and then bend the locking plates over them. The nuts do not tighten against a bottom surface, one might say they float. If you tighten the retaining nuts further the springs will be stiffer thus reducing the distance which the plates will separate. This creates clutch drag, not top mention right arm-pump.

 

[Old Geezer]

A picture is worth a thousand words. Check out this exploded view of the clutch. #17 is the clutch spring, #19 is a washer, #18 is a locking plate, and #20 is the retaining nut. The locking plate spans two of the pressure plate studs. Once assembled the corner tabs of the four locking plates are bent up over the eight retaining nuts. So, turn the retaining nuts 8 to 9 turns and then bend the locking plates over them. The nuts do not tighten against a bottom surface, one might say they float. If you tighten the retaining nuts further the springs will be stiffer thus reducing the distance which the plates will separate. This creates clutch drag, not top mention right arm-pump.

Ahhh-so, Grasshopper! Got it.

 

[Crashaholic]

[quote="Crashaholic, post: This creates clutch drag, not top mention right arm-pump.[/quote]

Did I say right arm pump? .... I meant left arm pump! Jeez, no wonder I went over the bars last time I grabbed the clutch in a panic!

 

[Gord]

[quote="Crashaholic, post: This creates clutch drag, not top mention right arm-pump.

Did I say right arm pump? .... I meant left arm pump! Jeez, no wonder I went over the bars last time I grabbed the clutch in a panic! [/quote]

I was wondering about that myself. I figured you must have meant your other right!

 

[Old Geezer]

Did I say right arm pump? .... I meant left arm pump! Jeez, no wonder I went over the bars last time I grabbed the clutch in a panic!

I was wondering about that myself. I figured you must have meant your other right![/quote]

I thought maybe it was a European thing, like driving on the wrong side of the road. I've ridden a few right shifters in my days (B'tacos, if I recall)...they just mess with your mind when you go to stomp on the rear brake in an emergency and only get a gear change. Then you grab for the front brake and get just the clutch (well.... :-)