• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutch Switch Removal

Cosmokenney

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I need to get my clutch lever moved more towards the inside (so, I need to slide it horizontally to the right). But the clutch safety switch cable sticks straight out from the cylinder and hits the handlebar. I just want to get rid of the switch. I was wondering if anyone knows what I need to do to cap off the spot that will be left open if I pull the switch, and is it even possible?
20140826_165902.jpg
 
I always removed those things. just another fail point out on the trail. those type safety items are DOT type mandated things we find on these enduro/FIM legal euro machines.

If I remember correctly (I posted this a long time ago) the switch harness plugs into the main wire loom with male/fem bullet connectors. When you disconnect the swtch harness those bullets are M to F and can simply be plugged into each other closing the circuit permanently. remember to pull in your clutch when e-starting the engine out of habit anyway, its just good practice .
 
wow found it fast, Im sure its the same or very similar set up as your machine. note I was mistaken above, I used an opposing automotive connector to short the loop circuit, but could have cut and butt spliced the ends , but I wanted to keep the main harness intact with its switch harness mating connector in place.

I need to get my clutch lever moved more towards the inside (so, I need to slide it horizontally to the right). But the clutch safety switch cable sticks straight out from the cylinder and hits the handlebar. I just want to get rid of the switch. I was wondering if anyone knows what I need to do to cap off the spot that will be left open if I pull the switch, and is it even possible?

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/eliminated-my-clutch-safety-switch-on-txc310r.30759/
 
I've added a photo to the original post. It shows the fluid line at a 90 degree angle and the switch is somehow integrated into it. The switch, I'm guessing, is the red plastic piece. My goal is to get rid of the switch part all together. As you can see, I have the electric cable smashed up against the brush guard mount. If that electric garbage wasn't there, I would be able to move the whole lever assembly to the right another half inch or so.

I would imagine that unbolting the switch would drain the cylinder? Any idea what I would be able to cap it off with once I remove the switch?
 
I need to get my clutch lever moved more towards the inside (so, I need to slide it horizontally to the right). But the clutch safety switch cable sticks straight out from the cylinder and hits the handlebar. I just want to get rid of the switch. I was wondering if anyone knows what I need to do to cap off the spot that will be left open if I pull the switch, and is it even possible?
View attachment 45395

I'm wondering if the banjo is pressed onto the fluid line? If it's threaded on, I suppose I can replace it with a different right-angle connector??
 
I have done this on the rear brake switch by replacing the switch with a banjo bolt. Jap and euro bikes usually have different thread pitch on the switch so be sure and check it before screwing in the wrong banjo bolt. I would imagine that connecting across the switch plug connector would simulate the clutch always pulled in.
 
Ah! A banjo bolt. I wan't sure what it was called. I'm going to have to track one down. Maybe the KTM dealer has it.
 
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