• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

CR360 1976 Engine re-assembly - any tips?

Laverdaton

Laverdaton

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm just about to re-assemble my 360 engine after a crank rebuild, new piston and rebore.
Are there any tips or assembly sequence in the bottom end that I should be aware of before I start....?
Thanks in advance
 
In addition to a shop manual the attached PDF is a few pages of Service Bulletins for your bike. For engine related see 5 through 13.

One thing I've learned with engine rebuilds is to make sure the surface of the base gasket, intake gasket, and the right side crankshaft seal retainer-plate gasket are clean and flat. Air leaks at the intake and base gasket guarantees the bike will not run right. I even started using Permashield gasket sealer to make sure I don't have to take things apart again. It takes a very small amount, is fuel resistant, and can be cleaned off the gasket surfaces later if needed using brake cleaner. Another thing I do is run a tap in the fastener holes to make sure the threads are clean so the torque isn't skewed by debris or poor threads and when the threads are damaged they get a heli-coil.

For me a new rebuild that doesn't idle right, runs lean, and seizes ruins the entire rebuild experience.
 

Attachments

Thanks for your responses.
Has anyone got a rebuild manual in PDF that I could have a copy of? I looked in the technical section but the links don't seem to work for me. I won't start without the manual......
 
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