• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Crank case cancer

Four Digit

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a basket case 86 Husky 400xc and I just opened up the motor. Found some cancer and was wondering about possible fixes for this?

New to this so all information is appreciated.

Thanks
Doug Walker
 

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I clean damage like that with a cone point dremel to clean out corrosion. Do not touch any cleaned surface with your fingers or any other bare skin. Fill damage with JB Weld and pack and rough blend. Popsicle stick works well for mixing and application in tight areas.

Looks like a centercase. Check your clutch cover behind the water pump impellor. That is the most likely place to find that kind of damage. If you pic is of a centercase that damge under the crank happens when water gets into the engine sometimes long term from condensation in the engine
 
I clean damage like that with a cone point dremel to clean out corrosion. Do not touch any cleaned surface with your fingers or any other bare skin. Fill damage with JB Weld and pack and rough blend. Popsicle stick works well for mixing and application in tight areas.

Looks like a centercase. Check your clutch cover behind the water pump impellor. That is the most likely place to find that kind of damage. If you pic is of a centercase that damge under the crank happens when water gets into the engine sometimes long term from condensation in the engine

Jim, thanks for posting a response. You are correct, that is a photo of the center case. I going to make an assumption that you use the dremel to a point that you see clean material and go no deeper. Would you suggest just making an arbitrary rectangle to encompass all the corrosion and then clean out ALL the material?

One last question, what do you mean when you say "rough blend"? By the way, the clutch cover under the impeller is TOAST!

Thanks
Doug
 
By rough blend I mean after packing the cavity with JB Weld, use the applicator(popsicle stick) to smooth over and blend to general contour prior the the JB Weld starting to tack over.

No need to remove any more material than it takes to remove the corrosion . You can use a stainless steel wire brush to final clean. I did that repair behind the impellor . Mine was bad enough the seal counterbore was completely wiped out. I repaired it JB Weld inside and out leaving a core for the shaft to go through. I had a local machinist plane the JB Weld on the face to the level of the gasket surface. Then I had him backload the impellor shaft from the bottom so he could tram the shaft to establish the seal location.

If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, pm me
 
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