• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Crank Rebuilding

1982 XC 430

1982 XC 430

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello, I have a 84 250 Crank that looks good but I'd sure like to have a look at the big end bearing. There was Case damage due to Magnisium corosion. I have never done a Crank before but I have a Press, Dial Indicators and a Lathe that I can set up as a Trueing Stand. Is there any Secrets to doing this? How do You twist the Crank to True it? When I used to send out my Jet Ski Cranks they Tig Welded the Weights to the Pins when done. Anybody doing this? Thanx....
 
I put the c/shaft between centres .
Mark high points with chalk ,hold one flywheel [ with hand ] and smack the other flywheel with a copper hammer on the high mark.
It takes time [ depends how far out it is ] but the results can be satisfying.
Cheers.
Ps. If the high marks are together and not opposite then put a lever between the flywheels opposite the marks and lever or put the high point marks in a vise and squeeze.
I have got them to less than .001 runout doing it this way.:)
 
When assembling you also have to achieve the previous thickness over the crank wheels. Measure before diassembling if you do not have a manual that describes this
 
I am pretty sure that big end pin is the same diameter as the 430/500 so in your case welding probably isn't worth thinking about. Not sure it is as popular with dirt bikes as the four cylinder street bikes when that type of roller crank was being used. Can't say about jet ski.
 
Just pressed my 430 apart and thought about rebuilding it myself. Spending an awful lot of money on a new rod kit though so thought I would give it to a man I've used for years who will press it and just have to hit it once in exactly the right place with the right force. Can't beat experience, I don't have it. I will have a go some time but not this one. Would be very interested to see how you get on if you could post it all up?
 
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