Cylinder Re-sleeving

[FirstEliminator]

Hey guys,

I have a few Husqvarna cylinders that all need resleeving. This is a service I have not purchsed before. I have heard about LA Sleeve. Not sure if there are any others. Has anyone had a cylinder resleeved lately? If so, round about what should I expect to pay? On the LA sleeve order form there are lots of options. There is a place to check off for Nikasil. Is this something that can be added to a any cylinder for enhanced performance? They also ask about overbore and big bore. I am pretty sure I would just stay with the stock bore. They also have honing on there, if you ask them to hone to a finished bore, do you need to send them a piston for proper fittment?

i've never swapped a sleeve myself. But, I do rebuild auto transmissions on a daily basis and own machining equipment like lathes and mills. Not sure what the savings would be to just buy a sleeve versus sending out the whole cylinder. It's probably something I would attempt to do myself if I can do some research on proceedure to feel confident.

thanks,
Mark

 

[juicypips]

check out http://kustom-kraft.com/SLEEVING.html
seems reasonable ive got a 360 barrel thats had thier work and seems averagd, but rough prices are online.
not too impressed with the bridge work on the vertical axis seems a little wavey, but ive addressed those with a small file.

 

[auto]

I do that kind of work at my home shop.If your interested PM me

 

[fran...k.]

What is that avatar picture? Would that be a diesel with a wet sleeve engine?

I am sure some of this has been on here before particurlarly the part about nikasil. Unless you really want the lighter weight of an origional piston vs an oversize or can only find standard size chances are just using a larger piston, buying a used cylinder if necessary just seems more sensible to me anyway.

 

[steadydirt]

Have heard mentioned Pro dirt track riders removing a new Nikasil jug to go to a sleeve as reportedly the iron sleeve can give up a better fit and more power.

 

[jimspac]

Steve at www.huskydoggg.com has OEM and LA Sleeves cylinder sleeves on hand for many. Give him a yell if you can do the work yourself. It is not hard to do. Heat the cyclinder to about 300° and remove sleeve from top. Note position of ports as lining everything up before dropping the new sleeve in is the only tricky part

 

[Kartwheel68]

You have the skills required to do a sleeve replacement, which as has already been noted, is not really all that difficult.

 

[juicypips]

you forgot the prescision boaring involved to get it spot on, over boar it and the barrel will head up before the liner and can move up an down, during the power strokes. leave it to professionals if you want a job done right, i mean im no doctor but im willing to try casting a broken arm or skin graft... or would you prefer the experianced people to it...

 

[FirstEliminator]

It's a diesel a Detroit 4-53 in a 1973 P&H H312 excavator. Not sure what the engine consists of internally, never had it apart.
Well, I have 3 or 4 cylinders that need work. Some of them have the skirt broken off the bottom. I did see a few 360 cylinders on e-bay. There was one that doesn't look like it needs work and comes with a piston for $140. That is cheaper than sending the whole cylinder out for sleeving. I haven't found what just the sleeve will cost and do the work myself. It sounds like a fun and gratifying project.
I just prefer to fix what I have. Certainly I wouldn't throw out the cylinders with bad sleeves. Perhaps one day there will be no good used cylinders available. I can afford to sleeve one of my bad cylinders, so I'll leave the used cylinder for someone on a tighter budget.

 

[FirstEliminator]

you forgot the prescision boaring involved to get it spot on, over boar it and the barrel will head up before the liner and can move up an down, during the power strokes. leave it to professionals if you want a job done right, i mean im no doctor but im willing to try casting a broken arm or skin graft... or would you prefer the experianced people to it...

I am a major "do-it-yourselfer". I got to be that way because so many times when I hire someone to do something, it costs more and isn't up to expectations. I remember a post from Troublemaker where he showed a pic of a cylinder that was bored by a professional and there were chatter marks left in the surface causing low performance.
Now, I don't do my own dental work. But, I have dug a piece of metal debris out of the surface of my eye with a needle. It was hard not to blink. Medical and cylinder boring are an understandable comparison, but if I ruin a cylinder, it will only cause pain to my wallet.
I like to learn to do things like this. I get a "gratification high" from accomplishing new things. Especially when someone says I can't or shouldn't take the risk. The equipment is in my shop, I just need to develop the experience.

Let me add, I don't look down on anyone for hiring a professional. I would automatically just send my cylinder out if I didn't already have equipment capable of performing this function.

 

[Kartwheel68]

Do it yourself.

 

[juicypips]

fair play, i like the do it your selfer attitude, humm chatter marks too high an rpm on the bore bar and or a blunt tool.
if you got the kit sweet.
im normally the one being called on to fix the mistake the privious jerk lacked to do the first time.
keep us posted on how it goes

 

[FirstEliminator]

Here is the machine I think I would use. It is a 1952 Monarch 60 series lathe, 16" x 126".



This was a video of me cutting squares into circles to make thrust surfaces for the rollers on my excavator. It is a pretty big project. The rollers are all being bored to press in 660 bronze bushing. Then the bushing is bored to fit the pin with a .001 tolerance. Being there are 18 rollers plus the sprocket shaft supports, I guess I am developing my boring on a lathe skills.

I would remove the 3 jaw chuck and mount a face plate on the lathe. The cylinder would be mounted to the faceplate using studs. Use an indicator an adjust the cylinder to find the true center. One of the things I read on LA Sleeve's site was to have an .004 interference fit in an aluminum bore.
It doesn't actually seem too hard to accomplish. Although I am sure I there will be a few more steps for set up as I go through the process.
Then I will need to find a bigger toaster own to heat the cylinder.

 

[Kartwheel68]

Like I said, its a relatively simple job for someone with your skills and equipment.

 

[Kartwheel68]

Hey, I see you are in North Adams, are you going to the ISDT Reunion Ride there in August?

 

[FirstEliminator]

Fixing stuff other's have carelessly screwed up. Here is a good example. I've been resurfacing cylinder heads for a local auto repair shop. This started because he brought a set of head to the local auto parts/machine shop store and paid them to resurface the heads. Well, there was still gasket material left on there. All they did was take a wiz wheel with a brown 3M abrasive disc and quickly go over the surface. I'm not sure if I could emphasize how bad of a job they did. The wiz wheel probably only only contacted about 25% as they zig zagged down the surface. 75% was untouched. And they charged him for resurfacing!
Old iron disease is a sickness of mine. You'll often find me on the forum practicalmachinist.com . I bought an old Cincinnati shaper. Which 99% of machinists call obsolete. For profitable production, I guess it is. But, it can do some things that mills cannot. Like internal splines. Anyway, the shaper makes a nice flat surface and it is easy to set-up a head on the machine's table.
Here is a video of the shaper resurfacing a Subaru head. It could be speeded up, I usually just work on something else near by as it does it's thing.

 

[FirstEliminator]

YES****************************************!! ISDT reunion. One of my friends is heavily involved in putting on the event. Another friend is mapping out the Legends Ride---which is a dual sport in conjunction with the reunion.

I am planning to get my 73 Husqvarna 450wr together. I am still up in the air about whether to do the dual sport or participate in the competition. My friends are recommending I do the competition.

Being used to riding the 07 Husaberg, I am not sure if I can't yet imagine how rough this 1973 wr is going to be. Even though I own 5 vintage Huskys, I've never ridden a vintage bike. They were all purchased as projects.

Here is the 450wr:

 

[Kartwheel68]

I'll be there riding my friend Helmut Clasen's '78 Sachs 250 MCGS. I've done every Reunion Ride since '06, it is the one vintage race I will never miss. Do the competition for sure, I think you will be fine on the '73 450. The Reunion Ride is an ISDT style event (obviously) so for each 20-25 mile loop you are only really racing during the 2-5 mile terrain tests, the rest of the loops are just an easy trail ride.

 

[auto]

390 sleeves are cast in,your not heating the cylinder and dropping it out.You have to bore it to the correct size and you have about 10/15 seconds to align the ports after heating it.

 

[FirstEliminator]

390 sleeves are cast in,your not heating the cylinder and dropping it out.You have to bore it to the correct size and you have about 10/15 seconds to align the ports after heating it.

Thanks for the info, I was figuring on boring out the old sleeve. O-k, gotta be quick with the install. I will probably try to make some alignment marks before the cylinder gets heated. Does it expand enough to drop in or do you need to press it? I have a 2 ton arbor press that works fast. But, my hydraulic press is a slow mover. It's a 75 ton Dake.
Is 400 degrees warm enough?

thanks,
Mark