• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Dreaded CS wear problem

MorrisBetter

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a 2006 Te-51 (~7,000 miles). The last time I had the CSS off I found that the splines on the shaft were showing wear. I'd hate to do a rebuild just to fix this final drive issue that will require a complete tear-down and reassembly. Everything else seems perfect. I just don't want to get stranded in the middle of nowhere because the CSS is spinning on the shaft. Ideas?
 
The pros and cons of the issue are pretty well covered in the 610/630 forum:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/disgusted.39509/

Different opinions on causes. Many predictably want the hardest sprocket they can find, but then you may end up with what you have. Others advocate for (and also against) greasing the shaft splines. In the end if your splines are totally toast then yeah, the only true/best fix is to split the cases and replace the shaft. I wish we had a bolt on set-up.
 
I have almost 20,000 miles on my bike, I never put grease on the sprocket or shaft. I have had 4-5 different CS sprockets, I have a bit of sloppy play but not enough to scare me.
 
I run it dry also. I do have some slop now (@ 8900 miles) but my splines appear fine (so it's the sprocket wearing, thankfully, but maybe some marginal spline wear I'm not seeing w/ the naked eye.) My engine recently grenaded and is being rebuilt so I thought of replacing my shaft, but given that I can't see any wear that seems overkill. Anyway, here's what George at UpTite posted on the thread on this over at the 610/630 forum:

Problem is when shaft to sprocket gets dry it rusts. Then riding rust rubs off then shaft rusts again,and again, and again.
This is removing material from the shaft, over time the shaft has lost material this loss of material on the splines makes the sprocket loose makes it wear faster.
I use JT sprockets as have found they are the tightest on the splines.
Hardness of the sprocket has nothing to do with wear on the shaft it's the lack of tightness that has more effect on wear and rust. Once the shaft has started to wear/rust it just wears faster as it is wearing thru the case hardening.
SM's are the worst for this type of wear when the chain finally gets lubed the splines never seem to get lubed.
WD40 to keep rust from forming helps. But some oil the splines is best.
Don't use chain lubes found engine/trans drain oil works better no tacky stuff to hold the grit (lapping Compound) sling off cleans off much easier than chain lube sling off WD40 and a rag it's off.
Just try the drain oil trick it's free and you can see for yourself it lasts longer than the expensive spray lubes.
Later george
 
On my Honda 650L many owners had a similar problem wearing the splines down on the shaft. The honda 650L CS sprocket only had the spline machining to match up with the countersprocket shaft splines partway across the sprocket (there was a relatively narrow bite where the CS splines and shaft splines mated up) - we substituted a honda 650R sprocket that had the splines machined into the sprocket to a greater width, thus getting a more even bite on the sprocket. Once guys switched them out, no more problems. Didn't seem to matter the relative hardness of the sprocket or vendor versus wear with the wider spline contact area.

Maybe you can find a sprocket with a wider contact area. A lot easier than breaking the case apart! Good luck.
 
I went through the same thing I have had on order for almost 3 months
A counter shaft or a lay shaft as they call it
KTM has sent nothing yet and cant tell me when it might come to be.
 
We rebuild thousands of Husky engines, and yes we also use Dirt tricks tool steel sprockets and keep our chains loose. I find the oxidation (rust) theory a little far fetched, in any event, tool steel doesn't rust. But the real flaw here has been missed all together. Not all Husqvarna, nor any other brand shafts are the same. European steel can be quite poor and as funny as it sounds, the shafts may not have even received hardening. Either it was cafe´ break time or an early Friday, who knows. Some riders will get great longevity and others will not.
 
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