Dual throttle cables on 2007 TE450 Keinin carb.....

[bower100]

I'm replacing the stiff acting stock cables with a quality set of aftermarket ones and am having the same issues.

When they're routed as normal ...carb to throttle housing...there doesn't seem to be enough "play" in the cable set,( both pull and push cables), to allow some free movement of the throttle. And the lack of free play even seems to make the throttle harder to turn .... and not snap back from the return spring action.

Both cable adjusters up near the housing are screwed all the way in, and both cables are set for maximum play at the carbs bell-crank.

Now if I simply hold the t.housing in my hand...off the bars ... holding it so the cables are essentially straight, it works well. Good spring return and easy working.

So, I'm looking at the old cables and ... they're also set for max play. Seems they were fine all along... they're "binding" seems to also be from inadequate cable play adjustability.... too tight for the curves the cables must make to run from carb to bars. There's no better way to route them either.

Whats up with that? Am I simply used to "old- school" throttle action. A single pull cable ... that snaps closed "cleanly"? Why are the adjusters such that they are essentially useless .... screwed all the way in?

Crazy maybe, but does anyone eliminate the "pull-closed" cable and only use the single pull cable? Bad idea with a bell-crank style carb?

I was looking at how the cables attach to the carb...no way to modify to gain some cable adjustment. It would only mess up the fit and seal of the black plastic cover on the carb.

Any ideas?
Thanks, dave

 

[rancher1]

lay both sets of cables side by side, are they the same length ? Do they have the same amont of cable sticking out ?

 

[Colo moto]

Maybe try looking for any place the cables get pinched. Like under the tank or something like that. If you cant find anything try rerouting them a couple other ways. On mine the cables run in front of the top triple clamp, then down the frame on the throttle side to the carb. I still have plenty of adjustability to work with too.

There are two cables because 4 strokes can possibly generate enough vacume to hold the slide open. Without a pusher cable you could get stuck WOT

 

[bower100]

Cables are all exposed as I'm installing new. Nothings binding or pushing on them and they're routed as you say. (In front of top triple, thru little metal hoop that restrains them just behind the steeringhead and then straight down to the carb.

New aftermarket are exactly same as OEM...cable lenght/jacket length. Just a thicker looking outer jacket and so maybe a bit more resistant to curves.

I lubed them ....WD40, and that did help some ( don't normally lube new cables though).

I'm gonna take some pictures of it all . I'm perplexed.

The 4-stroke vacuum affecting a 1-cable system issue.... don't know. Seems strong vacuum could pull the flat slide so tight to the carbs internal walls the spring might not be able to over-come it.


More later.

Thanks, dave

 

[lairpost]

Check the throttle tube, the cable(s) could be off to the side of the 'ramp' binding against the housing.

 

[Michael Lueders]

Also the routing at the carb is crucial. Sounds like a bend, kink or off the guides at either end. Should have a nice distinct snap to close. First thing tech inspects at events is the closure of the throttle. Also keep in mind if the opening pulled cable has a ton of slack in it all that bunched up cable at either end will fight the closure springs and also jump off the guide cams.

 

[bower100]

There's no slack anywhere. (Can't figure out how others actually need to adjust out excessive slack). Old and new cable set. Very close to same.

Routing of cables.(Really only one way). (

Bell crank end.

Throttle end...Moose aluminum G2 tube. ( KTM/Husky)

Ok. So as installed there's no play. The cables are just tight enough so as to cause binding ... stiff acting. Needing just a bit more length to the inner cable wire I changed the arraingment at the bell crank ... carb end. Normally one jam nut would be on each side of the bracket. Tighten the nuts and the other cables end is secure. I moved both jam nuts to the carb side of the bracket,(inside the black carb cover). This added about 3/16" length to inner cable wire.

No way now to tighten the outer cable with jam nuts but the way they're captured in the bracket they're not going anywhere. Locktite the jam nuts so they don't wander. Success ... just needed a little more slack. Relocating those two thin jam nuts did the trick.

One more big photo....of my "new" bike.

I should have taken photo's of my crushed radiators. Maybe next time.
dave

 

[funmachines]

When I put in a G2 cam I had to do some clearancing. I only had a problem when it was fully tightened on the handlebars. I had binding until I fixed the interference. Try and reinstall the stock throttle cam and see if the binding goes away.

 

[bower100]

The Moose tube actually says, "Compatable with G2 systems"". I take that to mean what I have matches the stock tubes profile but the cam can be removed from the tube, as per G2 systems, and put a different cam on.

Dave

 

[Dirtdame]

I have been following this thread with some interest, because I have an 07 TE450 and the stock cables had enough room to adjust them for plenty of throttle play even with the bars at full lock one way or the other. I checked the routing and it looks like the routing on the bike in the photo above.

 

[Troy F Collins]

I'm replacing the stiff acting stock cables with a quality set of aftermarket ones and am having the same issues.

When they're routed as normal ...carb to throttle housing...there doesn't seem to be enough "play" in the cable set,( both pull and push cables), to allow some free movement of the throttle. And the lack of free play even seems to make the throttle harder to turn .... and not snap back from the return spring action.

Both cable adjusters up near the housing are screwed all the way in, and both cables are set for maximum play at the carbs bell-crank.

Now if I simply hold the t.housing in my hand...off the bars ... holding it so the cables are essentially straight, it works well. Good spring return and easy working.

So, I'm looking at the old cables and ... they're also set for max play. Seems they were fine all along... they're "binding" seems to also be from inadequate cable play adjustability.... too tight for the curves the cables must make to run from carb to bars. There's no better way to route them either.

Whats up with that? Am I simply used to "old- school" throttle action. A single pull cable ... that snaps closed "cleanly"? Why are the adjusters such that they are essentially useless .... screwed all the way in?

Crazy maybe, but does anyone eliminate the "pull-closed" cable and only use the single pull cable? Bad idea with a bell-crank style carb?

I was looking at how the cables attach to the carb...no way to modify to gain some cable adjustment. It would only mess up the fit and seal of the black plastic cover on the carb.

Any ideas?
Thanks, dave

I assume your not pushing the throttle assembly on all the way(jambs on end of bar?) before you tightened it up..

just a thought

 

[bower100]

I assume your not pushing the throttle assembly on all the way(jambs on end of bar?) before you tightened it up..

just a thought

He-he ..... a though, but no.

Don't want to beat a dead horse, ('cause I solved it by moving the "outside" jam nut on both cables), but I want to be clear...if there had been just a tiny bit more cable slop this woudn't have been an issue. I mean 1/8" on each would have just done it. It was that close. These cables are listed for 250-450-510...450and 510 same carb?

Maybe to accomodate the 250 their just that 1/8" snugger...Dunno.

They're GOOD cables ...wire slightly larger diameter that stock and outher jacket thicker too. But there is a trade-off for thicker/bigger. Less flexability...bending a tight radius = more "take-up" on available slack.
Oh, and one other thing...maybe a TC wouldn't even have an issue because with a steeringhead keylock on a TE it seems to inhibit a bit the natural path the cables want to take as they lead their way up to the bars. Without that keylock 'stub" and the metal hoop cable guide below it, the cables would take a somewhat wider radius path from there to the bars.

Dave