• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Electrical gremlins

Chillybean

Chillybean

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi all need some help, my 2010 TE 310 will start and idle but pretty much as soon as you accelerate the top 20 amp fuse on the starter relay blows. Any suggestions?
 
Chillybean said:
Hi all need some help, my 2010 TE 310 will start and idle but pretty much as soon as you accelerate the top 20 amp fuse on the starter relay blows. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

The schematic is sucky for this bike.... but, that being said, I'd first check out the grey wire that goes from the fuse to the right-hand switch (and the switch itself). Also coming off this wire is a "Normally Open" switch that is not called out on the shematic; it kinda looks like a kickstand safety switch or clutch switch (if your bike is so equipped- and would be a prime suspect). the ecu also has has a tap on this grey wire that goes into about position 9 or so and would probably have drama around where it exits the loom to route to the ecu.

sorry I can't be more specific- like I said, it's a real bad wiring diagram.

good luck.
 
If it's OK till you rev the engine and the fuse blows the first thing I would look at is the reg-rec.
Put a volt meter on a 12 V point and start the bike, rev and see what the output is. if it goes much over 14V there's your problem.
It is possible you need to try this on DC and AC as if the rectifier is stuffed it probably puts out AC too.
Any blown bulbs too?
 
Currently run out of fuses:mad: when I get some more I will check the voltage. One other thing I have noticed just now is that normally when you turn on the ignition without starting it just the parking light comes on. At the moment when I turn the ignition on the headlight comes on as if the bike had started.
 
OK, out of curiosity and desperation I just shorted the fuse and ran it. 14.7 volts at idle, gave it a rev and it did not change much. I only ran it for about 10 seconds but that was enough to blow the fuse for the dash. So now I have more questions, will a faulty rectifier make the headlight come on without the engine running? What voltage should I have normally have at idle? Will I be able to get a rectifier as it is now considered to be an old Husky?
 
Chillybean said:
OK, out of curiosity and desperation I just shorted the fuse and ran it. 14.7 volts at idle, gave it a rev and it did not change much. I only ran it for about 10 seconds but that was enough to blow the fuse for the dash. So now I have more questions, will a faulty rectifier make the headlight come on without the engine running? What voltage should I have normally have at idle? Will I be able to get a rectifier as it is now considered to be an old Husky?
Click to expand...

inspect the left hand switch- sounds like there might be a problem there.

If you're measuring 14.7V DIRECT CURRENT at different rpms, your reg/rect is probably fine (the whole charging system is good actually).

You've got a short somewhere, more than likely- look for it. It's gonna be a worn or broken wire; it might be pretty small. Look for the little hints (slight discoloration or melt/burn, fatigue marks, rubs etc).

good luck.

ps- it looks like your dash does not have a fuse dedicated to it (solely) but uses the same one the rest of the auxiliary equipment uses. maybe. that damn schematic is bad... and the TXC one is very clear but different enough not to be helpful.

pps- don't short the fuse; it's keeping you from melting a wire or catching on fire. fix the problem.
 
Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated. When I get more time over the weekend I'll look for that short. Will let you know what I find:thumbsup:
 
Ok, found where the harness had rubbed through just under the rear of the tank. Bike now runs without blowing fuse but still have the issue with the headlight staying on without motor running. Should I be concerned or not?

Also like to mention that I have had this bike from new, it now has 12000km on it and this is the first time it has ever let me down.rub 001.JPG
 
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