• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

engine case gasket sealant,what are you using?

highdez1981430cr

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have used gasketcinch for years with average results.

With the increase in adhesive tech. latley there has to be something better than gasket cinch as this product is probably older than all of us.

Thanks Guys,

Darrell
 
I liked Caterpillers gasket glue but the do-gooders made them take all the good stuff out of it. I used Loctites anerobic sealer on the last two Husky engines I did with great results. I use it on clutch covers also instead of the $8 gasket.
Scott
 
I liked Caterpillers gasket glue but the do-gooders made them take all the good stuff out of it. I used Loctites anerobic sealer on the last two Husky engines I did with great results. I use it on clutch covers also instead of the $8 gasket.
Scott
Can i get this at Autozone or Kragen and is there a blue or red type as in locktite thread sealer?

Have you ever tried the Yamabond from Yamaha? its a pliable grey stuff.
 
I liked Caterpillers gasket glue but the do-gooders made them take all the good stuff out of it. I used Loctites anerobic sealer on the last two Husky engines I did with great results. I use it on clutch covers also instead of the $8 gasket.
Scott
And where are you getting clutch gaskets for $8? i think the last one i bought was $15
 
I liked Caterpillers gasket glue but the do-gooders made them take all the good stuff out of it. I used Loctites anerobic sealer on the last two Husky engines I did with great results. I use it on clutch covers also instead of the $8 gasket.
Scott
H.F.
I just ordered from McMaster carr loctite #515 purple in color,is this what you are using instead of the Cat. stuff?
 
Sorry Darrell I was suppose to get you that number, Yes that is the stuff. its anerobic so it seals in absence of air. I use it for clutch covers instead of a gasket, saves $$$
 
Sorry Darrell I was suppose to get you that number, Yes that is the stuff. its anerobic so it seals in absence of air. I use it for clutch covers instead of a gasket, saves $$$
Yes, that will save me alot of money on gaskets.
Getting ready to mount my nickalsealed cylinder for US Chrome and a ceramic coated 2nd over piston.But i want to do a leak down before i fire it up.

What psi do i pressurize it to and what is the time/psi loss that is acceptable?

Thanks

Cant wait to break this thing in! it should rip.
 
Be sure to use a centercase gasket, its needed for spacing.

I use Permatex #51813 Anerobic gasket maker. Fills gaps up to .050"
and is solvent resistant.
I found it through Amazon.
 
Be sure to use a centercase gasket, its needed for spacing.

I use Permatex #51813 Anerobic gasket maker. Fills gaps up to .050"
and is solvent resistant.
I found it through Amazon.
.050 ? thats huge.
I want to do a leak down check on my freshly Nikelsiled cylinder and ceramic coated piston to make sure she is tight.
What psi do i pressurize it to and what is the acceptable time and pressure loss?

Thanks Ron,btw where was that picture of you standing next to the 390 taken at?
 
Is three bond dry semi flexable?

And how easy is it to remove after it is cure and been in service for awhile?

Off the box "Semi-drying liquid gasket viscoelastic type having synthetic rubbers as its main ingredients.This liquid gasket has been designed to form a layer thick enough to work efficiently on uneven joint surfaces. After drying, it turns into a rubber like elastic substance. It excellently resists heat, oil,gasoline and particularly LPG."

I use it on fittings as well instead of teflon tape.

I usually just use WD40 and a scraper to clean it off.
 
What psi do i pressurize it to and what is the acceptable time and pressure loss?

Thanks Ron,btw where was that picture of you standing next to the 390 taken at?

The old rule of thumb for pressure test is 6 psi for 6 minutes.
That's actually my son, first time out with the 390CR at El Mirage.
Add 30 years for my picture.
 
What psi do i pressurize it to and what is the acceptable time and pressure loss?

Thanks Ron,btw where was that picture of you standing next to the 390 taken at?

The old rule of thumb for pressure test is 6 psi for 6 minutes.
That's actually my son, first time out with the 390CR at El Mirage.
Add 30 years for my picture.
ok so 6 psi for 6 minutes with NO pressure loss? no tolerance?

Thanks Ron
 
No, its real pliable and cleans off easily. It sets up with about the consistancy of a O-ring. Originally designed for sealing machined surfaces like alum trans cases, transfer cases, alum esp. It was to eliminate gasket fracturing then fasteners get loose, leak etc. We used it alot to seal an aluminum housing to a steel housing. With the differences in expansion and contraction between the two it was hard to get a gasket to keep a good seal and once the gasket fatigued then that joint was loose and leaking. This stays pliable and has a high shear to prevent that. learned my lesson that both surfaces have to be very clean. I was going to replace the case center gasket in my Husky with it but its needs the gasket for a dimensioned "space".
I use it instead of gaskets in my aluminum Muncie four speed and my Doug Nash race box.
 
No, its real pliable and cleans off easily. It sets up with about the consistancy of a O-ring. Originally designed for sealing machined surfaces like alum trans cases, transfer cases, alum esp. It was to eliminate gasket fracturing then fasteners get loose, leak etc. We used it alot to seal an aluminum housing to a steel housing. With the differences in expansion and contraction between the two it was hard to get a gasket to keep a good seal and once the gasket fatigued then that joint was loose and leaking. This stays pliable and has a high shear to prevent that. learned my lesson that both surfaces have to be very clean. I was going to replace the case center gasket in my Husky with it but its needs the gasket for a dimensioned "space".
I use it instead of gaskets in my aluminum Muncie four speed and my Doug Nash race box.
I just recieved the locktite #515 from McMaster-carr today.stuff is pricey but even if 1 little tube saved a gasket purchase it is still cheaper and i am sure a little tube would do 2 R&R`s.

I want a doug nash 5 speed for my 69 El Camino or a gear venders behind my muncie would be cool to with a veta-gate shifter.GO GASSERS
 
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