• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Fastening torque of front sprocket screw is 40Nm + sealing

peterjumpt

peterjumpt

Husqvarna
C Class
...as I (again:banghead:) intensively searched for the right torque spec for the screw of the front sprocket and this value is missing in the torque tables in the manual (there the 19Nm of the item "sprocket" mean the fastening torque of the bolt nuts of the rear sprocket!), here the correct value of the fastening torque: 40 Nm + sealing.
cheersRitzel_Torque_Terra.JPG
 
Had a pucker moment today... A while back I swapped out the front sprocket, dropped two teeth. Lately I've been riding I-5 running along at 65 @ 5000 rpm. Thought I'd put the stock sprocket back on and drop the RPMs a bit. Pulled the sprocket cover and found the bolt had backed out. That's all I needed... drop the sprocket and wrap that darn chain around while buzzing along at 65 in heavy traffic. That'll locker her up for sure. I'd have been a red smear after 47 cars thumped over me. 40 Nm... Hmmmmm, I put a little more ass on it than that. Some lock-tight too just to make sure. I'll hate myself when I go to swap out that sprocket again. But, man am I glad I decided to do a little wrenching tonight! Tomorrow's commute could have been a tad exciting! I guess I'll start pulling that cover every now and then and give the bolt a tweak. ;)
 
Thank you so very much. I am going to change the front sprocket this weekend and could not find that torque spec. :applause:

Is Blue Loctite recommended on the sprocket bolt?

Marc
 
Instead of Loctite I replaced the 8.8 spec bolt with a 10.9 spec which I had drilled, tightened to 40 Nm and then lock-wired (I think the US folk use the term safety wire) it in place. That sucker is neither going to shear on me (40 Nm is close to the yield strength of the OEM bolt) nor is it going to fall out.
 
Any photos of your lock/safety wiring?
I am assuming you have a stock sprocket or an aftermarket one with holes similar to stock?

I have been thinking about a locking insert bolt as my 17T sprocket is solid without any holes.

prevailing-torque.jpg
 
I,m currently separated from my bike by a couple of hundred kilometers. Should be able to take some photos this weekend. The job was very easy. I bought a pair of lock wire pliers off eBay, a jig to drill the bolt head which was rubbish and in the end just drilled the bolt head with a hand drill. The sprocket was a Super lite 15 th that like the OEM had lots of holes. There was plenty of how to do it material on the web. The hardest bit was sourcing a SMALL length of lock wire.
 
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