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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
First Oil Change on TE449 - Suggestions
- Thread starter firerider
- Start date
Dangermouse449
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I'm running Castrol Power 1 Racing full synthetic 5w40 grade at 5 hourly changes. Now have 150hrs up with no problems at all.
I run the HiFlo paper filters HF611, these are standards approved but 1/2 the price of the Husky original.
Lots of guys here are running Mobil 1 synthetic Car oil in 0w40 grade & claim no problems also.
Also some people run stainless mesh oil filters but they don't do a direct drop in for this model & it has to be adapted.
My personal choice is to avoid these, but others run and by all accounts have no issue.
I run the HiFlo paper filters HF611, these are standards approved but 1/2 the price of the Husky original.
Lots of guys here are running Mobil 1 synthetic Car oil in 0w40 grade & claim no problems also.
Also some people run stainless mesh oil filters but they don't do a direct drop in for this model & it has to be adapted.
My personal choice is to avoid these, but others run and by all accounts have no issue.
coleman1495
Husqvarna
A Class
New filter is definitely in order for the first change. I would recommend the change closer to 60 miles. I switched to Mobil 0w40 and it I wouldn't look back(also have recirculation system). Actually makes a scary amount of difference in terms of how the bike runs. Revs faster and runs cooler.
Forget what the owners manual says. Zip-Ty racing is the closest thing you will find to dealer support.
Forget what the owners manual says. Zip-Ty racing is the closest thing you will find to dealer support.
Vustadumas
Husqvarna
A Class
On my 2nd oil change since getting the bike a couple weeks back. I went with Mobil1 0w40 full synthetic after reading many peoples opinions on it. Gear box feels smoother. Also switched out to a metal reusable oil filter from Scott's, and it looks identical in size to the OEM filter. It fit exactly as the OEM did, so no modifying it on my end, but if I've missed something, someone please let me know 
Dangermouse449
Husqvarna
Pro Class
On my 2nd oil change since getting the bike a couple weeks back. I went with Mobil1 0w40 full synthetic after reading many peoples opinions on it. Gear box feels smoother. Also switched out to a metal reusable oil filter from Scott's, and it looks identical in size to the OEM filter. It fit exactly as the OEM did, so no modifying it on my end, but if I've missed something, someone please let me know
Maybe you could share the part number for the Scotts filter for the guys who want to use them.
I know Tinkens magnet oil filter cover thread has guys adding spacers to a KTM filter.
Big Timmy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
The Scotts S/S filter cost about $60.00 and is a direct fit. On the other hand a PC167 S/S filter for a KTM 450 costs $22.00 and all you have to do is epoxy a .40 cent disc magnet from a hardware store in the recessed end that is about 3/4" dia, and just under 5/16" thick and it drops right in and extends it's length a bit.
Plus you have a magnet to retain any metallic crap in the oil like the drain plug. Its a good place for a magnet too.
The PC 167 is just a bit shorter than your Scotts filter.
The PC167 is a smaller overall outside diameter though but this allows a higher rate of flow around the filter element itself as there is more space. Claims of 38% flow increase have been made by using the smaller diameter filter.
Works great and is easier to get ahold of then the larger dia. stock or Scotts filter to remove it for service as well.
"ZipTy Racing" sells a slick billet filter cap that has 4 more magnets in it to cap it off. It's removable with a 3/8" socket extension on a breaker bar or ratchet. It's much less likely to fail than you chingering up the 22mm hex head on the stock filter cap.
Plus you have a magnet to retain any metallic crap in the oil like the drain plug. Its a good place for a magnet too.
The PC 167 is just a bit shorter than your Scotts filter.
The PC167 is a smaller overall outside diameter though but this allows a higher rate of flow around the filter element itself as there is more space. Claims of 38% flow increase have been made by using the smaller diameter filter.
Works great and is easier to get ahold of then the larger dia. stock or Scotts filter to remove it for service as well.
"ZipTy Racing" sells a slick billet filter cap that has 4 more magnets in it to cap it off. It's removable with a 3/8" socket extension on a breaker bar or ratchet. It's much less likely to fail than you chingering up the 22mm hex head on the stock filter cap.
Teambowles
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Did my first oil change at 300 miles. I've done many since bike has 3200 miles on it now. I change my oil between 300 to 500 miles and use Mobil 1 0-w40 and have no problems. I measure out 1150cc of oil and dump it in. No recirc kit and very minor drip once in a while out the hole in the bottom of the air filter. It's mostly been in sm trim since new, riding in the dirt I would change it a little more often. Also I use distiller water in radiator and have to top it off at oil change, doesn't take very much but keeps my OCD in order. Enjoy...
La Flama Blanca
Husqvarna
AA Class
I've been running amsoil full synthetic 0w-40 for about 1500 miles now. Impressed and pleased with the performance and durability of this oil. I have always used the HiFlo paper filters. Maybe some day I'd get the SS version. I'm also running this with the Zipty recirc. kit and evans waterless coolant. Definetely a cooler setup than stock.
Tinken
Husqvarna
Pro Class
http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-449-511-magnetic-oil-filter-cover/
http://www.ziptyracing.com/pc-racing-stainless-steel-oil-filter-167/
Or you can get the "Scotts" filter bellow from us.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-449-511-stainless-steel-oil-filter/
Vustadumas
Husqvarna
A Class
Maybe you could share the part number for the Scotts filter for the guys who want to use them.
I know Tinkens magnet oil filter cover thread has guys adding spacers to a KTM filter.
http://www.scottsonline.com/Product_Purchase.php?PartType=3&Bike_ID=6252
Damn, would have ordered from Zipty had I known you had it!
asterios36
Husqvarna
AA Class
CASTROL Power 1 full synth and hi flo filter oil and is the best choise for me and many other riders here in Hellas, but don't forget to feel with oil your new filter as it's very important.
Big Timmy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I use a Dial type Newton Meter torque wrench all the time.
I've known people with these engines in both Husky's and BMW G450Xs that have had to lay the bike down on it's right side to push straight down and use an impact gun to get the filter caps off. Just to do the first oil change. The stock caps hex head is easily damaged if your socket has much of a chamfer on the end. Best to grind the socket's end off flush on a disc sander or carefully by hand.
After that failed they had to carefully get ahold of the cap's outer circumference on the very narrow ridge of the stock caps with a channel lock to finally get it off, even after using a propane torch as a source of heat. Not much of a ridge their to get ahold of either on the stock ones.
Not worth replacing with another one of the stock one's either.
The ZipTy filter caps are the way to go.
I've known people with these engines in both Husky's and BMW G450Xs that have had to lay the bike down on it's right side to push straight down and use an impact gun to get the filter caps off. Just to do the first oil change. The stock caps hex head is easily damaged if your socket has much of a chamfer on the end. Best to grind the socket's end off flush on a disc sander or carefully by hand.
After that failed they had to carefully get ahold of the cap's outer circumference on the very narrow ridge of the stock caps with a channel lock to finally get it off, even after using a propane torch as a source of heat. Not much of a ridge their to get ahold of either on the stock ones.
Not worth replacing with another one of the stock one's either.
The ZipTy filter caps are the way to go.
Teambowles
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Ok have 1 hour on new 15 fc450. Gonna do first oil change, opinions on switching to Mobil 1 full synthetic on her or should I run another hour first...thoughts on switching to full synthetic so soon and with only 1 hour or keep running break in oil or a non synthetic?
djdougiedoug
Husqvarna
A Class
I Use a Stainless steel Moose racing filter 0712-0236. It's a bit smaller than the paper filter but works fine. I haven't bothered with a spacer, seems fine without it. Mild road use only so I Use 5w-40 (what evers the cheapest & change every 500 miles or so. 8500 miles and counting!