• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc floppy 125 shifter

NWRider

Husqvarna
AA Class
my shifter has a lot of slop in it. Not in the tip but from where it mounts on the shift splines. I took it off, applied lock tite on the splines, then put it back on and it was solid. But after a little riding it migrates out on the shaft as far as it can and gets loose again. I checked the bolt and it was as tight as I dare get it.

Does anyone know a fix for this? Do shifters off any other bikes work on the Husky 125?

Thanks
 
Make or buy a spacer that goes between the bolt and shifter. It acts like a washer and I was able to tighten it more and have not had a problem since. Mine is approx .250 thick so a longer bolt would be needed.

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I might try that but I think it is tight enough though. It is very hard to get a wrench on that bolt which I am assuming the spacer is a fix for. I used a dremel on the lever to fix the same problem. I can crank it down as tight as I dare now. I am thinking that maybe before I did this fix the loose fit allowed the shifters teeth to wear and now it is just not going to work. It is nice and tight when all the way on the shaft but it always migrates outward then is floppy regardless of how tight the bolt is.

I have some red loctite that is made for securing interface fits. Maybe I will try to put it all over the shaft and see if it stays tight.
 
Definitely start with a new shifter. If you try to use an old one it will not work. The splines have already been damaged.
 
Do you know if this is any oem only part? I was thinking there has to be a crossover but without a pile of shifters from other brands I would have no idea what to get.
 
Another way you can get it tighter is to file a couple of teeth off the inside of the shifter,it worked on my old Triumph.
 
BlueHusky144;28955 said:
Definitely start with a new shifter. If you try to use an old one it will not work. The splines have already been damaged.

thats the best advise.....

the steel splines on the shifter shaft will still be ok...

its a good idea to check the torque of that bolt every few rides.....
 
Check with George at Uptite. He makes a spacer that goes between the shifter and engine case. It's simple and works like a charm. If you're old shifter is already wallowed out you should get a new one but get the spacer and install it at the same time.:cheers:
 
Norman Foley;28977 said:
Moose Racing steel one for late 90's through '04 or so fits. I put one on my '02. MYA17 is the part number.


Thanks. I notice that is a Yamaha shifter. I wonder if certain other Yamaha ones work also? Steel would probably be best anyway so I will look for the Moose one.
 
Norman Foley;28985 said:
Yes.... I put newer alloy one ('04 up) on the '02 and kept Moose as a spare. The splines are same '99-'09.

Sweet, thanks for the correction. Is it the same profile as the stock one?
 
NWRider;29070 said:
Thanks. I notice that is a Yamaha shifter. I wonder if certain other Yamaha ones work also? Steel would probably be best anyway so I will look for the Moose one.

Any other aftermarket or OEM Yamaha shifter that fits same Yamaha application would fit.


Sweet, thanks for the correction. Is it the same profile as the stock one?


Close, but cruder and very square in profile. I ground the inside top edge to get better clearence by chain. At $24.95 it makes a cheap spare in your tool box. OEM Husky alloy one was $90.00 at Cagiva pricing, but may have come down with lower Husky NA parts pricing. OEM Husky '99-'02 one is steel, but is shorter than the alloy one or Moose steel one. Bike shifts better with longer one.
 
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