• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Fork Seal blown due to burr in fork 2011 te310/fork spring question

F

Fooschnickenz

Husqvarna
B Class
Got a little burr on my fork from laying it down. Knew it was gonna destroy the seal but had nothing with me to knock it down and I wasn't feeling good about using rock. So anyways gonna get a new seal. Luckily it looks like the TE forks are a little easier to open than the TXC for the 11s. Now on to my questions!
1. I have small pit in my fork (pict included) and some minor scratches I've knocked em down and polished em so they are smooth to my finger but there are some indents, do I leave them or fill them and if I fill them with what?
2. What size springs should I use upfront I'm 155 pounds without gear and ride mostly tight trails lots of rocks. I don't really have complaints on how it was prior but figured I would look into it while I had this thing apart.

Anything else I should address while the forks are apart? Also on a side note my rear Sachs shock makes a grunting noise on rebound,suspension feels ok but noticed the noise today.
image.jpg
 
If the scratch in the chrome cant be felt with your finger than you might be ok. Especially if it isn't in the normal sag riding level of the stroke. If it starts to tear the seal i guess you'll see oil, if it is bad enough you might not be so lucky.

If you can get away without losing oil then leave it that way. Otherwise the only fix I'm aware of its rechroming the tube. I have had my shock shaft honed, but i don't think it works the same way with forks.
 
Maybe check the 'grunt' isn't the shock top pivot point mount. I've had the same problem and fixed it by greasing between the bearing and the frame body.
 
I've read guys have used super glue or nail polish to build up small dents/valleys from scratches. Apply a thin coat, let dry, and repeat until it fills the area, then use emery cloth or fine sandpaper to smooth even with the fork tube. Never tried it myself.
 
I would give a common "Burnishing tool" a try before using any type abrasive, stone or otherwise on the surface of the fork leg. If there is a scratch no matter how lightly it is damaged, then some metal from the low point of that scratch has been displaced out of that low point. That's what takes out the seal.

You may not even be able to hook it with a fingernail and feel it but its there. Best way to fix a light scratch on a fork leg in my experience and on light aircraft landing struts which can get beat up fairly easily since they don't have any protective guards.

Is by using a common Burnishing tool.
This tool is inexpensive 5 or 6 bucks and nice to have in your toolbox and comes in many shapes and variations.


Taking any type of an abrasive material to the surface is a last resort. First use a burnishing tool as pictured below and not remove any metal at all. The simple rubbing of that tool ( though it may take some time) just be patient. There will be no removal of any displaced metal from the damaged area with the use of a burnishing tool. It can often be smoothed out without abrasives or any kind of metal removal from a stone.

You would be surprised what you can do with one of these tools on hard metal. I've done it many times. Once metal is removed there is no turning back. Try to burnish it back into place.


Curved Burnisher - Wide
BRN-107-2.jpg
 
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