• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Fork Spring Preload Spacer??

A

adam6402

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey all,

I've read through various old threads about utlizing pre-load spacers. Only one thread mentioned the length of a spacer but that was in relation to cutting the springs down 3 inches or so. As it relates to stock '82 XC250 40MM forks, what is the max spacer length that could be used safely without limiting travel or causing the springs to bind internally?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam
 
I might suggest you look at this thread. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/vinduros-suspension-setup-recommendations.17836/#post-155652

You generally want the bike to settle a little when you take it off a crate or stand and then settle more, quite a bit more when you sit on it without any weight on your feet. Putting air in the forks or putting much preload on the springs isn't generally in line with the way the suspention is designed.

I really doubt you would put in enouth spacer and still be able to get the top piece of the fork to screw in to have to worry about becoming spring bound. The idea of cutting the spring and replacing the cut portion of spring with spacer it to get a stiffer spring without having to locate and or buy one.

Often in the more modern stuff the motocross versions have adjustable preload fork caps which perhaps go somewhere in the 5 to 10 mm either way from center and the off road versions don't come with those fork caps.

fran
 
One other question for anyone that can answer.

I want to replace the lower steering head bearing only because the seal is toast. The upper and lower bearings and races are in great shape. I removed the circlip (30) pictured below thinking that would release the washer (29), but the washer wont budge and it does not look like it will slide over the bottom of the steering shaft (28) so that I can seperate the steering shaft from the lower clamp (27). Am I going about this the wrong way, whats the best way to pull that lower bearing? I also wanted to remove the shaft so that I could refinish the fork clamps.
.IMG00627-20120107-0243.jpg
 
See how you make out with the search function it has been covered a few times already. I have basically demolished the cage and rollers and ground the inner part down to very thin and then got it off. If I recall correctly (just reading on here) to press out that stem it goes out the long way but I never removed one.
 
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