• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Gear upgrade CR430

M

Mike82CR430

Husqvarna
I seen a few threads on gears... The service bulletin recommends replacing the three kickstart gears ( Kicker, idler and clutch as a set) but makes no mention of the primary drive gear. Do you need to change this one as well??
 
The clutch gear is really two gears the little one turns the idler gear and the big one is turned by the gear on the crank. So if you keep the same number of teeth on the clutch one the crank one should be ok. Somewhere around 1985 the design of the three gears in post #1 visually changes I can't see any change in the design of the primary reduction gears though. Ideally a nice new big gear on the clutch would like a nice new smaller gear on the crank to rub against especially if they are aftermarket but probaby not necessary unless some needle bearings got loose and galled everything.

fran
 
Mike I've mixed and matched the gears sets for years now with no trouble. Just be aware that they actually used many different tooth-count combinations, and not all of them mesh correctly. I suspect this is the main reason Husky recommends replacing them as a set. Since we no longer have the option of just running down to the dealer and buying the set... we have to piece them together, often from different engines and different years as we can find them. If you start swapping, make sure you get a correct mesh all the way from the crank gear to the clutch gear to the small gear on the back to the idler to the kicker.
 
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