• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Glyptal 1201 Coating used for inside of crank cases

Bengt Husky

Bengt Husky

Husqvarna
AA Class
Some assistance from the Husky world...

As the cases of my '82 430 Husky were showing some signs of porosity in the crank area and on the gearbox side of the cases I decided to coat them with Glyptal 1201. I've just stripped her down after only running her for 15 minutes and have found that the glyptal has been removed and bubbled in about 75% of the area...:eek:

I just wondered if anyone else has used this product before and whether it's resistant to the fuel mix.

I run 40:1 95 Octane standard unleaded found here in the UK with Rock oil fully synthetic pre-mix.

In the gearbox I'm running Rock oil fully synthetic, but I'm told I should switch to semi synthetic.

I'll post some pics up if my computer will let me.

Thanks.
 
If the Glyptal is a 2 part epoxy type coating it may not have cured properly. If is not a 2 part epoxy type coating it would not be fuel resistant unless specificaly mentioned in characteristics
 
I've never used Glyptal 1201, but here's the techanical label info :
http://www.glyptal.com/1201tech001.pdf

though it says is can be used on the interior of Hydraulic tanks & bearing cases,
it doesn't say it can be emused in either fuel or oil, which kind of doesn't make sense?

But This site says it's
" For the engine restorer it’s used as an internal engine coating, (amongst other electrical industry applications).

We have frequently been asked for this product, particularly for older restorations with motors that are slightly porous.

It’s resistance to oil is excellent, and water, acid, salt water, is good. Air dried or it can be baked to a smooth finish. Designed to with stand continuous temp of 135 deg C."
http://ppcco.com.au/enamel2.htm

Maybe like Jim said it's wasn't cured fully.

Husky John
 
Check for alcohol and fuel resistance. Rust-Oleum has a fuel resistant engine paint now I am considering trying
 
Both Glyptol and rustoleum make great crankcase sealer but painting aluminum with anything is tricky. First off its got to be clean, I mean really clean. Nobody knows more about getting paint to stick to aluminum in harsh enviroments than Mercury marine so I'll give you their recomended proceedure.
1. Clean part thoughrly with good degreasing soap (Dawn dishwashing liquid works well).
2. Rinse with clean water (should be demineralized water).
3. Scuff surface with scocthbright.
4. Spay with mild acid such as vinegar and let set for a few minutes.
5. Rinse with clean water and dry.
6. Apply zinc chromate primer (available at marine supply out fits like West Marine).
7. Finsh coat. This is where you use the Glyptol or Rustoleum and yes make sure that they are oil and chemical resistent versions.
 
I am going to try POR 15.

About the only way to get it off after it dries, is a sandblaster. If you get it on your hands, it has to wear off.

I think it is a good fit after you read up on it?

Stuff just keeps digging deeper as it dries.

I am beed blasting mine, using metal prep cleaner, JB Marine Weld then POR.
 
B
dartyppyt said:
I am going to try POR 15.

About the only way to get it off after it dries, is a sandblaster. If you get it on your hands, it has to wear off.

I think it is a good fit after you read up on it?

Stuff just keeps digging deeper as it dries.

I am beed blasting mine, using metal prep cleaner, JB Marine Weld then POR.
Click to expand...
Both bead blasting and Por-15 are good options. Make sure that after you bead blast that you use plenty of soap and water to get the grit out of the pores on the metal. Probably still a good idea to follow the procedure that I outlined above. Might be able to eliminate the primer with Por-15 but making sure that it is clean and the surface is normalized (passivated) really is critical to a good bond.
 
Also remember those crankcases are magnesium not aluminum/ With all the tips passed along by rajobigguy you must never touch the bare material with your bare hands until the painting is finished. Wear latex or sterile gloves while prepping or nothing will stick to any spot a finger touched. A guy here several months ago had his finger print show up acidically etched into the mag case.
 
I recommend Loctite 290 as a porosity sealer. It is cheap in the general scheme of things and very effective. It is what many manufactures use in their processes. Shhh...don't tell anyone.

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/290-EN.pdf

Ps. You need to preheat the part and it must be clean. Read the complete PDF above.

Regards,
Paul
 
Well I don't know what went wrong but I would think that it should of worked fine. I also coated the inside of mine with Gyptal but as that Engine is still sitting on my workbench 9 months later I havn't given it much of a Test. Its a 1 part Paint developed in the 1930's to coat the inside of Electric Motors.Its not cheap about $50 a quart. However it has been used in many harsh enviorments since. Its been the Standard Paint used to coat the inside Cylinder Blocks of High End Engine builds for the last 40 years or more. Mostly used to cover any casting sand that may be left and to aid Oil drainback to the Pan. My best thought would be that You didn't let it dry long enough. If the surface prep was wrong it should of chipped off and not disolved. If You still have the same can I'd paint an old part and then wait a week and see if You can desolve it with Pre Mix Gas.
 
Here is some great feedback I have received. At a special formula one to showcase the GP in Austin Tx. they brought out old F1 cars from 70s and 80s .

Talking to owners - Many had mag cases for transmissions. They said you must always coat any interior exposed mag. period or it will not last. They all use gun coating ceramic style finish. This is on inside and out Cerakote style as example product used. Another is the former Kal guard product. According to feedback you can put oil, solvent, acid etc. and it will stand up to these.

We are lucky on the interior of the crank area we always get a coating of oil and carbon that seems to seal this area. This is the area I see the most of the exposed mag . The old cases I have torn apart all seem to have the most damage here. Most are beyond repair.

Have a offer to do a set of cases for no cost. It is the former Kal guard product. Hope to do a set before fall.

May start doing all my cases with this product.
 
I went last weekend to pick up a quart of POR 15. Right beside the product was a similar product, called KBS rust sealant. Doing a quick search, it is good to 600 degrees. Lil higher temp tolerant than POR 15. It was in a small pint can for about $16 and for $28, you can get all the metal cleaners/thinner in a kit. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/RustSeal.html

I beed blasted the crank area but taped off the bearing areas/also did down in the web cavities/behind moto plat area. I used metal prep,wax/grease remover and then final washed with Dawn detergent/water mix. I also filled any pitted areas with JB Marine weld and sanded to feather out.

I bought some small artist brushes and applied the KBS. I used 2 coats total. Very happy with results and reminds me of the original coating that was used. I got some on the gasket sealing edges and had to sand it off.

Just like POR, don't get it on your hands, cause it won't come off. It has to wear off. Stuff is bullet proof, won't peel, won't crack and no solvents or fuel will remove it. It also penetrates deeper into the metal if any moisture is present.

KBS comes in satin black, gloss black,red, silver etc....
 
Interesting read dartyppyt :) Turns out I have a KBS stockist a couple of miles up the road.
What exactly was the name of the KBS product you used for your cases. I am interested in one that adheres to mag and normal alloy.
 
grouty said:
Interesting read dartyppyt :) Turns out I have a KBS stockist a couple of miles up the road.
What exactly was the name of the KBS product you used for your cases. I am interested in one that adheres to mag and normal alloy.
Click to expand...

It is the KBS Rust Seal. Click on the site above and it takes you right to the product. Click on the different tabs to read up on it.

I do know that to paint over it, you do need the adhesion promoter.

Also look at the clear and also high temp paints.

I have used POR on a lot of my muscle car resto stuff. First time I used it, was on a frame to test. When I went to sandblast the frame, it wouldn't come off. I had to really crank up the air pressure and stay at it to finally get it off. The sand just bounced off it.

I still have some on my hands from last Sunday and it still won't come off.

I might shoot the clear over a gas tank, basecoat color if it is that durable. Plus, it should really stick to aluminum.
 
I really think that when it comes to painting aluminum or an aluminum/magnesium like engine cases the key is the prep work and primer. You can eliminate the primer if you're using an epoxy paint but the prep work is still the key to good adhesion.
 
I used paint stripper to get the whole lot off and I'm going to leave it off....I don't want it coming off again and on closer inspection the cases only have very minor porosity anyway.
 
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