• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Head lap

H

Houredout401

Husqvarna
AA Class
No not head in lap, but head lapping... So I searched and cant find any posts that tell the details of this process. Ive lapped valves and flywheels in the past.

I'm assuming I put a tiny amount of lapping compound on the horizontal mating surface of the cylinder, put the head on and then rotate it back and forth a bit with a little pressure?
 
Yup put some lapping compound on the surface of the seal and turn the head right and left, lift the head up draws the lapping compound back to the seal area and repeat. With a little pressure. Once the seal surface is completely a light gray it's done. Now there is a course and fine lapping compound use the fine lapping compound. I do this on every engine I pull the cylinder on.

At the same time while it's apart take a straight edge and check the bottom of the cylinder and the case base gasket area for flatness. Make sure there are no burrs. I seen where the PO have used screwdrivers to pop up the cylinder leaving a burr on the edge of the base gasket area. The leak down test will make it show up but it's better to look for it while it's apart. Check and double check.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top