Heavy Clutch Pull

[luvwoods]

Hi Gang,

Re: 1984 WR250 - Before I get carpel tunnel syndrome from pulling on my clutch lever, I'd like to know if any of you have some "tricks of the trade" to reduce the force required to disengage my clutch. I have a brand new clutch cable but have the "shorty" Magura handlebar lever. I'm going to need new clutch plates soon so I figured as long as I'm doing that....

Also, if anyone knows what the factory (or correct) routing of the clutch cable is, I would appreciate knowing that too. Right now the cable comes off the lever perch and across the speedo, down the right side of the steering head and frame, under the exhaust where it exits the head and through the hole in the left engine mounting plate, then it rises up onto the left side of the engine where it terminates in the cable bracket on the engine case.

Riding in tight woods where I'm always clutching is wearing me out!

Thanks, Tom

 

[Joe Chod]

1st thing is "CAREFULLY" bend the clutch actuating arm upward were it bolts onto the bellcrank that enters the cases so it allows the cable to remain parralel to the ground rather that at a downward angle. This reduces the friction created on the cable sheathing and the metal cable as it exits the cable shaething in the vicinity of where the cable is retained on the cylider left side. Secondly, you should ditch the shorty. Reason is leverage. Third....add about 5/8 to 3/4 inch in length to the clutch actuating arm. Increased lenght is increassed leverage=easier pull. Too long is bad as increased length= increased thorw and too much is bad.

Old tricks and hope they help.

Joe

 

[Joe Chod]

Dont route through holes in front engine mounts. Makes a slight kink ---"Choke" point.

Look at this setup for routing as picture is worth a thousand words.

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2102

 

[luvwoods]

Dont route through holes in front engine mounts. Makes a slight kink ---"Choke" point.

Look at this setup for routing as picture is worth a thousand words.

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2102

Joe, funny you sent me this link. I was just looking at that screamer myself and made due mental note of routing. Any idea where to get those nice full length levers from??

Thanks for your feedback; much appreciated. Have a buddy with super welding skills so I'm going to give him my clutch arm to extend.

 

[Leftcoast leftkicker]

also be sure to lube the cable and drain/blow it out after every wash. read the owners manual on how to properly adjust the clutch push rod (internal)

 

[Joe Chod]

If a buddy welds, have him put a "dogleg bend (2 opposite 90 degree bend) in the arm when he extends it thereby negating Bending it upward

Joe

 

[HuskyT]

I've read that the extension should be exactly 20 mm. I'm planning on having my local ( nieghbor) welding guru do mine...

T

 

[HuskyT]

If a buddy welds, have him put a "dogleg bend (2 opposite 90 degree bend) in the arm when he extends it thereby negating Bending it upward

Joe

Joe - What is the best "hieght" for the dog leg when you cut it , raise it and extend it.... ?


T

 

[Joe Chod]

Joe - What is the best "hieght" for the dog leg when you cut it , raise it and extend it.... ?


T

if you look at the cable routing, swoops down past the front engine brackets then up over top front of primary cover and then sheathing end fits into retainer near left rear corner of the cylinder. I say this to show it is pointing at a slight rise. When the cable leaves the sheathing, it must now travel down to connect with the bellcrank. this makes the friction point at the end of the sheathing. Think of a bullet that was forced to the bottom side of the barrel as it left the weapon. (smoothbore...no rifling before some one sharp shoots me on that comparison). I deal height varys on models but try to minimize the downward angle and you will reduce the friction of the cable on the exit point of the sheathing so it will not have a "belay" effect like a mountain climbers rope.

Joe

 

[luvwoods]

read the owners manual on how to properly adjust the clutch push rod (internal)

Wish I had an owners manual. All I have is the parts list. Someone on eBay has been listing a reprodcution of a shop manual and I was considering buying that - but am leary of eBay listed reproductions...

 

[Joe Chod]

FYI
Those shop manulas were made by a guy who used to work for Husky....they are good.

Joe

 

[schimmelaw]

Luvwoods,
Hope this helps. Note the solid "filler" piece. Cut arm in between the spot welds used by the factory to hold the two parts together. Weld in the "filler" piece. Grind to clean up. Holes extra. Sand-blast. Ready for the finish of your choice.

Modified arm is longer - better leverage. Height increase significantly reduces the downward postion of the cable as it leaves the mount on the case - less friction at that juncture. Advantage of this arm as compared to stock - easier pull at the lever. Bingo!

Oh yea, get a longer clutch lever, too.
Rick

 

[Joe Chod]

Thanks for putting an old trick picture that I was probably confusing some with just words. An old trick that has been around for years but now with sites like this....they won't die with us.

Joe

 

[luvwoods]

Luvwoods,
Hope this helps. Note the solid "filler" piece. Cut arm in between the spot welds used by the factory to hold the two parts together. Weld in the "filler" piece. Grind to clean up. Holes extra. Sand-blast. Ready for the finish of your choice.

Rick, this is excellent; I love mechanical drawings. Neighbor friend is ready to do this for me. Hopefully this week. I'll photograph and post results.
Tom