• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help, weak front brake.

BentAero

BentAero

Husqvarna
A Class
'07 TE250. I didn't realize how lame the front brake was until I rode an '08 TE250. Wow! that thing had a front brake from a road race bike. I then rode a CRF250X that also had a killer front brake. Hmm, something's wrong w/ mine.

I bled the front brake line thinking that would improve it's performance. That didn't do anything, no change. It doesn't feel 'soft' like there's air in the line, and it doesn't get any firmer if you 'pump it', it just doesn't stop well.

Is this setup prone to 'hidden' air bubbles that don't come out easily?

Should I change pads? (stockers are in place)

Ideas?

TIA.
 
If the lever does not feel soft and you bled it i would look at cleaning the disk with brake clean and swapping out pads.
 
I had the the same problem when the children cleaned my whole bike with silicon spray. Bless Them.:D

I got off lighter than a friend whose son polished his week old R1 with a Brilo Pad (like wire wool). I'd of loved to be a fly on the wall in his house."Whada ya use son?":):(:mad::eek::eek::eek::eek::confused:
 
Sounds like something is wrong to me. I've ridden a bunch of 2006/7 TEs and needed to be careful with the front brake cause they worked so well.
 
Coffee;2544 said:
Sounds like something is wrong to me. I've ridden a bunch of 2006/7 TEs and needed to be careful with the front brake cause they worked so well.
Click to expand...

+1 My front brake is deadly if your not accustomed to it.
 
Coffee;2544 said:
Sounds like something is wrong to me. I've ridden a bunch of 2006/7 TEs and needed to be careful with the front brake cause they worked so well.
Click to expand...

Exactly. This has been this way since day one when it was brand new. I'm kinda baffled as I doubt it is a contaminate on the rotor, because wouldn't it have worn off in dozens of rides and 1,400 miles?

I will sand/scuff the rotor and replace the pads as I've got nothing to lose. I was hoping someone had one of those magic bullet fixes where they said "This is what's wrong, it happened to me..."
 
The stock pads are the sintered (not sure on that spelling) meaning more metal. They wear into the rotor pretty badly and cause the front to be grabby normally. How many miles do you have on the bike? When you bleed them make while the bleeder is open and the master cylinder is full to push the pads in the caliper all the way back. That is where the nasty brake fluid is. I prefer a good organic pad on the front, like the braking brand. Like Ride said clean your rotor well and try a new set of pads. The more metalic pads though gives longer wear and usually is more grabby. Also take a look at your rotor closely and see if there is rub marks like the pad is not making contact fully.
 
Spongey lever = air in lines.

Firm lever and no stopping power = glazed pads.

Remove the pads, scub off a couple thousnadths using sandpaer on a flat surface.
Clean rotor with brake-clean and retry.

I've had pretty good luck wiith this.

YMMV.
 
That glazed pad sounds like your gremlin there Gary. Get some of those speed-bleeders too, I just put some on my 610 and it makes bleeding your brakes a simple one-man job. Not that I'd mind an excuse to come over for another cold beer mind you. :D
 
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