HOT TXC

[AndrewRex]

I have a 2014 TXC 310 and the cooling fan has stopped kicking on when the bike gets hot. I pulled the temp. switch and tested it in boiling water with my meter and it will work but, I don't have a clue how hot it is when it goes close. I don't have a thermometer that goes that high. I have three questions for any who may know: first, what is the operating temp. of TXC 310? B, Does anyone know of an aftermarket replacement for the switch? And last, will the coolant that I'm running effect the switch (I'm using Zip Ty's XF 2)?

Thanks,
Rex

 

[Johnrg]

My fan never comes on after installing XF+. I am just assuming it is more efficient. I still have stock hoses and thermostat. With water and regular coolant the fan would run a lot though has not been very hot to know for sure.

 

[Shovelhead85]

Confirm that the fan itself works (jumper 12v to it).

 

[AndrewRex]

Don't you think that if I took the time to boil the switch that I checked the fan motor? I found a switch at a local auto parts store that had a close temp of 217f and wired it direct to the battery works like a charm and keeps running until it cools off. I like that. Two or three minutes and it shuts off. Had to cut 3/8 NPT on the hose barbs but, there's a broad selection on switches if you do this. Mine is from a Chevy.

 

[CCP]

I run the same coolant. The fan should still come on. I check mine by starting the bike and letting it idle until the fan turns on. My guess would be around 5 to 10 minutes. I'm traveling, but can check the temp with ibeat when I get home. (2012 TXC310)

 

[CCP]

I run the same coolant. The fan should still come on. I check mine by starting the bike and letting it idle until the fan turns on. My guess would be around 5 to 10 minutes. I'm traveling, but can check the temp with ibeat when I get home. (2012 TXC310)

 

[Johnrg]

I added mine last fall and temps have been cool and been moving most rides so not a concern. I figure the next time it is 90-100 degrees and I'm limping in some tough terrain it will turn on.

 

[Shovelhead85]

Don't you think that if I took the time to boil the switch that I checked the fan motor?

Yes, I would think you should have tested it (and definitely should have mentioned it) but I did not assume you did- and why would I? You did not explicitly or implicitly indicate otherwise. In fact, you still haven't... but I am now going to assume the fan works; disregarding my decades of internet debugging experience to the contrary which has taught me (and continues to teach me. sheesh): never assume anything.

This a continuation of the same line of questioning you had 5 or 6 months back (radiator cap thread) where the fan was not coming on- but back then you stated that you had tested it. As you quipped to OlderHuskyRider when he was trying to help you: "this ain't my first rodeo".

So, to answer your questions:

• other members have reported that the OEM fan switch activates at 200°F (+/-5°).
• any normally-open temperature switch (1/4" NPT?) within a reasonable range should work. I doubt adapting a Chevy 217° switch would harm anything; but that is a fair bit higher.
• The coolant type should not affect the operation of the switch.

And as you have now figured out- you most likely have a bad temperature switch. ...that is, if you have ruled out the corroded connections you had in November (hint: dielectric grease, no pressure washing). I don't think Atlanta BMW sponsors CH so try someone who does. The part number is #8538490 and the cost is $23.50 at Hall's (betcha Bill's is cheaper though, give 'em a call). The parts manual shows this switch on Page 64, no. 26 but the OEM price list calls it out as a M6 bolt (I'm guessing it's a misprint; a $23 6mm bolt is a little hard to believe).

Harbor Freight has a good digital thermometer that goes up to 400° for around $7- but it's very hard and dangerous to get liquid water above boiling (206° where I live)- if you lose pressure it flashes into steam violently; so use oil instead. Try not to rest the the thermometer tip on the bottom of the container, in order to avoid false readings through conduction.

 

[AndrewRex]

Shovelhear85,
Sorry for the smart ass remark. I just get a little tired of people assuming that your a complete dummy when you're just trying to get a little info. I see that was not your intent. I used the 3/8 NPT because it was close to the 14mm hole in the hose barb. I only had to bore the hole a little for the pipe tap to work. As far as the temperature it seems to come on about when the stock one did when it was new but, now it's no problem to change it o and I have dozens to chose from and I can get it from the local auto parts store.
Down here in Louisiana we're right at or below sea level we can get water real hot on the stove. I don't know how hot my pot of water was but it could have as much as 250 or 275 F.
Thanks for the info,
Rex

 

[guscycle]

....seems you found a cure. It's abnormally hot here in Florida and in tight woods riding in afternoon temps around 100 ,I started boiling over. My cure was to remove all plumbing, install TC hoses(o.e.m. were cheap enough although the cool factor of silicone colored hoses caught my eye) and run an on/off switch to the fan just in case (I have a temp gauge wired in just to keep an eye on things) No problems in over a year...oh yeah, I run Engine Ice coolant ,too.

 

[AndrewRex]

I bypassed the thermostat by replacing the hoses but retained the inline fan switch. When I did that I put in Engine Ice. Not long after as part of an oil change I let the bike sit and idle and it started boiling out of the over flow and the fan never kicked on. I checked the fan motor and it worked fine so I tried Zip TY's XF 2 and changed the radiator cap thinking the Engine Ice might be the problem. I rode it a couple times with no issues but, the weather was cool, and I could still get it to boil over without the fan kicking on. Next test the switch.
The Chevy switch, which is suppose to close at 217 F, kicks on the fan well before I get to the boil over point. If it's coming on at 217 F I hate to think where the OEM switch is set and it may have just have gone bad. I like hearing that fan run, it gives me a little peace of mine.
Rex

 

[AndrewRex]

guscycle,
I rode Saturday here in Louisiana with my "new set up" and feel good about my results, cooling wise. We started off at about 9:00 am and it was about 63 F. Did 20 miles and it wasn't until the last cross road stop (we stop at all crossings to count heads and let everyone catch up) at about 15 miles the fan was on when we stopped and it ran about a minute and shut off. Good. Got back to the truck, same thing. We did another 20 mile loop that was a little more technical plus the temperature was up in the 80's by then. At every stop the fan was running and I'm sure it ran continues until we got back to the trucks again, which is ok with me, but when I got back to the truck the last time the fan ran for about 3 minutes. I don't think that's real bad, plus I don't think the fan pulls a lot of power and I have a good battery, an Earth-X, but if your battery is iffy maybe the manual switch is the way to go.
The main reason I'm using the XF 2 and not "Engine Ice" is because they say you can add water to the XF 2 but, it's not recommended for the "Engine Ice". I may be wrong about that but, I feel better knowing I can use my hydration pack or some bottled water if I need to and Ty Davis is a Husky guy.
Rex

 

[STEVEL]

I'm in the UK and looking at Evans waterless coolant but expensive and u have to flush 1st!
Ice coolant is water based so as suggested above u can top up from a hydration pack.
Evans states 180' degs and Rock oil complete ice is 170'c. T

Think i may go for the Rock oil

Who's tried these??