how does a clutch basket gear get this bad ? 82 cr500

[silverstreakNZ]

just havin a poke round the clutch side of things while i had the cover off to fix the leaky shafts and the gear for he kickstart on the back of the basket is aboslutely rooted . how did it get this bad when its mate is fine ? forgot to take pic but it is still fine
is there a miss match of gears ? basket has #886 on it

while were at it how do you know when its time to replace the alloy basket (see pic)clutch still worked fine

cheers team

 

[Freaky]

It just looks worn out to me. Once the hard face of the gear is worn then the 'softer' metal underneath wears very quickly. The other gear isn't showing wear presumably because it's a larger gear and therefore rotates much fewer times and has a greater contact area? The other options are some foreign body went through the gears or as you say, miss match of gears due to change of parts over the last 30 years? Basket looks ok, slight wear which you could file out if the clutch feels a bit grabby or is slipping, should work ok as it is though, have seen much much worse.

 

[hva-factory]

We have discovered that the main reason the small gear gets worn is that the plastic caged needle bearing twists under load. The gears then do not run square to each other. Replace the 1 long plastic caged bearing with 2 x steel caged items...

Andy
Elliott

 

[silverstreakNZ]

cheers man thats brilliant .

next question do i get this gear rebuilt ? or buy a new one from hva for $500?

 

[GaryM]

Really like the feedback from Andy on this problem. I have another theory here. This is based on the stack of bad clutch ring gears from all the used engines I have torn down and cracked cases I have found lately.

Lets look at combination of Mag side case with the aging of the kick start hole shaft elongating from wear etc. Combined with backlash from the idle gear, kick start gear, and the small gear on back the clutch ring gear.

The extra play all leads to failure

By putting the torque of the kick starting , together with this extra play and you have gears jamming on start up. You could have broken teeth, a nicked tooth that leads to future failure, or cracked cases. I have seen them all.

I have a sleeve to tighten the kick start shaft put in the case, I change the small bearings on the idle gear and the kick start gear often. ( someone here put oil impregnated bronze bearings here , I like this idea but wonder if Husky wanted to have some play here to help kick gear engage. )

Please looking for feedback - maybe George could have some this issue.

I also believe that Andy has found another one to consider.

 

[hva-factory]

The gear looks like an 886. I think most 500s had a 272 gear which is a coarser pitch. I am considering getting batches of both gears made, but it is a very dear job to do it from the best grade of steel and all the heat treatment involved...

I was hoping that one of the other Husky parts suppliers would get these done, as I can't afford to do everything at once****************************************

Also, Will they bear the cost as they will need to sell for a good £200 or so...

Andy Elliott

 

[husqyhamm]

Those are the pre 83 ring-gears, and they were real badly made, tempered (far as im concerned for a 500). With 20 teeth on the kicker side, definitely a no-no on 500s. One proper hard booted kickstart on a cold morn and those toothies are all bent and buggered.
All said by Andy and GaryM is what causes your damage, and are what you have to check for and service regularly to keep a Husky sweet and healthy.

If your bike is a CR with the 4spd box, what you want is the following (in fact will work real well on 5spd and 6spd):
Later model, preferable 85-86 that takes the 8plate clutch with proper springs.
30t crankgear, 70t ring-gear with 17t kicker, and the kickstart and idler gears that go with this package too, since they are not the same as your setup. As well as 8plate clutch boss. Ive found and used these items in good condo plenty on ebay for all together no more than $200 including a pack of good clutch plates.
I'm sure members here can help you.

@Andy, the 272 gear has 70t ring with 17t kicker and goes with the 39t #885 crank gear.
This is the XC package and came in 500, 430 and 400s. Possibly in 250s too. 83 into 84 only took 7plate clutch(these are the thicker plate clutches), rather marginal on a 500. 85-86 took 8plate clutches and are the ticket.
For all intents and purposes the XC was a extreme bike built specifically for serious cross country and desert deamons. It only really starts counting at speeds in excess of 90mph (which a sprocketed WR is comfortably capable of running at).
WR used 33/76t
The XC package had following drawbacks:
1) It spun the internals much faster than a WR or CR and wear on all gears and trans bearings was substantially accellerated, reducing overall service life and reliability.
2) On a 500 the crank rotation per kick-start stroke was minimal and it really compounded starting, particularly with that silly squigle lever.
3) To get it to work on trail and enduro type riding you had to fit stupid sprockets like 11/12t front and 56t back. Small front sprockets last a single weekend and are fantastic for chain gouging the swingarms up.

That said, all my 272 and 70t rings and baskets are shot.
If anybody has a good one for sale, Ill take it.
Yes, its what i need for dry lake speed events, and for that purpose only.

 

[silverstreakNZ]

cheers guys. ive put a lot of info into a few forums over the years so its choice when it comes back .
yeah the gear is an 886 . the bike is a cr 4speed .
should i put uip a wanted to buy in the right section or is there anyone you think i should ask about said gears ?

 

[SA63]

I have killed a clutch basket and primary gear by forgetting to put the circlip on the idler gear and the bearing has come out and been chopped up and chewed up the teeth on the basket and primary gear. not one of my proudest achievments.....

 

[silverstreakNZ]

doh ^^
yeah think ill just run another 886 gear as i wont be using the bike much . and can generally crash start it at the places i ride .
just picked up the metal replacement for clutch bearing . 2x "K28x33x13FV needle cage roller assembly" $15 NZD each

 

[Mike82CR430]

Where did you find another 886 gear? I haven't been able to find them....

 

[Mike82CR430]

I am looking into repair for this gear. The small gear is stripped clear of teeth because the idler gear became displaced. I believe this is inherent to the design of the kickstart mechanism. The pawl contacts the gear on one side only. This causes the gear to rock as it meshes with the idler gear under load. The smallest gear in the system takes the highest load per surface area. Just theory... If I can effect a repair... Involves removing the small gear and installing a replacement. On this engine I will also have to align the idler gear support shaft and weld the case.. I will keep you guys posted as to the success and costs involved. ... A smart man would have walked away already. I realize husqvarna had a service bulletin to remedy this with upgraded gears and a support bracket for the idle gear shaft. I have started my RM500 about 1000 times with no troubles what so ever. It sure would be nice to retrofit a completly different style of mechanism and do away with that goofy single pawl design.



Mike