• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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How to fix wallowed out bolt holes

H

Houredout401

Husqvarna
AA Class
Footpegs and shock mount holes are wallowed. Aside from drilling bigger holes, I assume the fix is to weld and re-drill? Im not a welder and would have to take it to a shop, but is chromoly tricky for an experienced welder to do? Better options?
 
Ez to weld, hard to drill but the right way to do it. Or if the application seems good for it you could always drill larger and put a bushing in it.
 
I'd do as Motosportz said, larger bush, drill out and weld the bush in, no need to try and drill the weld then which is usually difficult.
 
I would suggest considering cutting off the offending wallowed portion and grafting on new material. If the hole is drilled a bit small and then made the correct size with a ream it will be a good fit. Twist bits even when used on jig bore or milling machine don't usually make a round hole the size of the drill or bit I forget the correct terminology.

I have wallowed holes in the swingarm bolt area. I have yet to repair one but bought a lawn mower blade a bit thicker I intended on making kind of a washer thing and installing that. For the footpeg both the part that attaches to the frame and the footpeg itself and the bolt will all wear. I suspect the prongs that grab your boots are worn as well, might as well just get better ones perhaps off an auto or 125. Making two pieces with proper holes and a block and bolt then scribe to fit and weld in. It tig welds fine with er70s6 rod for me.

If one chooses to weld up the hole, and I have done this on farm type of equipment. Assuming the repair is thin enough not to work from both sides, Put a copper bar on the back side spaced just a bit away, fill in, make flat, locate and create hole. The make flat is the touchy part but for a footpeg wouldn't matter like a swingarm hole.

A parts frame has some places to cut off flat stock or frame tubes to hammer flat. Could probably cut off essentially welding rods sufficint for the task at hand if you really want the chrome moly and didn't get rod prior. I use tig, it is just dc not fancy wave forms of ac like might be most desirable to do aluminum or magnesium. There is pulsed dc though I don't have that capability and how much it would help for a repair of this nature is probably rather small. They made airplanes from this type of tubing with oxy acetylene before tig and it still is an approved method, I find stuff around gets much hotter for more distance and with the tig I can better see what is going on.

Fran
 
On my 83 the foot peg mounts were wallowed out. I drilled the mount bigger to accept an SAE bolt that is a little bigger than the stock metric but smaller than the next size metric. I didn't want to take out too much material in that area.
 
For me, it depends on the size of the hole. For most holes, a weld in bushing will work great. For larger holes, I use a copper slug or pipe and fill around it with weld material. Copper melts at a much higher temperature so it works perfectly as a mold. The resulting hole is hardened and will not wear out like the previous one.
 
keep an eye out for old bike frames as the good ones are chromoly and can come in very useful.
 
Interesting method, this seems like it would locate the drill bit well, or avoid the drill all together just use a slug/pipe a little smaller and then ream.
 
jo360 said:
keep an eye out for old bike frames as the good ones are chromoly and can come in very useful.
Click to expand...

Along those lines I have a 1976 ML frame that I chose to use as a chrome moly tubing donor for a few other projects
 
Tinken said:
Copper melts at a much higher temperature so it works perfectly as a mold. The resulting hole is hardened and will not wear out like the previous one.
Click to expand...


Not to be a nit picker Tinken but I use copper when doing weld build on steel because the welding puddle won't bond with it and is easy to contain. Copper actually has a lower melting point of 500+ degrees F depending on the alloy of the steel but if the heat zone is directed away from the copper it won't melt because it conducts the heat away so much better than steel. :)
 
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