• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Husky 630 must do mods/list?

papi4baby

papi4baby

Husqvarna
B Class
So i got my bike fixed end of last year, and i finally will be getting to ride it.

I know there are some mods that are a must do. Power up kit (got it just need to install it).

I know there are a few more (i think something with the airbox).

If anyone has a link that they can direct me to what to do on the bike i would really appreciated.

Thanks.
 
PU kit, JD Power Surge (or Power Commander V), opened up airbox cover and an aftermarket exhaust of your choice.. that's pretty much it ;)
 
Ketek said:
PU kit, JD Power Surge (or Power Commander V), opened up airbox cover and an aftermarket exhaust of your choice.. that's pretty much it ;)
Click to expand...

The airbox is opening it up and removing the laberynth of plastic right!

I had the clutch and sprocket nuts stuff done.

How about locktite on the starter switch bolts? Anything else?
 
If I could do it over again, I'd get radiator braces/guards along with the usual first mods. It's a heavy bike and I've dropped it countless times offroad. Now both my radiators are crushed a bit, which I didn't notice until recently when the plastic fairings were getting more difficult to fasten.
 
The wire loom behind the down tube is exposed to the header heat just a fraction of an inch away, and sometimes the wire melts. I used Heat Shield 'Thermaflect' tape around the loom at that point, and also where the loom comes out of the left side case. It's very close to the header there as well. Cheap extra insurance.

Subframe reinforcement if you are going to carry anything beyond a light load on the tail.

Re-torque the counterbalance nut on the clutch side, and make sure the woodruff key is a tight fit.

George at Up-Tite sells a bushing for the shifter shaft that makes the seal last a lot longer. The bushing keeps trash out and prevents the seal from working out.
 
I'm one of the ones with melted insulation by the exhaust headers. I discovered it when installing my Leo Vince system.

What I found:
IMG_1599.JPG


How I fixed it:
IMG_1600.JPG


It still boggles the mind why Husky would route their wiring like that. If you have to run it that direction, why not route it inside the frame?

For the airbox opening, some of has have done this:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-airbox-wake-up-call.20669/

It's not totally water tight, but it should keep most rain and such out. Just don't go shooting it with a jet of water when you wash it.

If you need a shop manual, shoot me a PM.
 
Not sure about the 630, but the 610 has a cluster of unprotected wires behind the tail light that will rub and short if not tended to.
 
motoman said:
I was just looking at your photo (sorry this is off of the subject you posted it for) and noticed a front fender black brace. Is this from the TE and if so how did you get it to fit because they are not the same shape as the SMS model.
Click to expand...
The TE doesn't have that either, unless they added it to later production runs. Here's my front fender:

P6180012.JPG


Looking at his picture closely, it looks like it might just be a shadow.
 
jtemple said:
I'm one of the ones with melted insulation by the exhaust headers. I discovered it when installing my Leo Vince system.

What I found:
IMG_1599.JPG


How I fixed it:
IMG_1600.JPG


It still boggles the mind why Husky would route their wiring like that. If you have to run it that direction, why not route it inside the frame?

For the airbox opening, some of has have done this:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-airbox-wake-up-call.20669/

It's not totally water tight, but it should keep most rain and such out. Just don't go shooting it with a jet of water when you wash it.

If you need a shop manual, shoot me a PM.
Click to expand...

Awesome tip.


I did do the power up kit, and remove the labyrinth on the intake box.

I check the bolts on the started switch after 100 miles and they are tight so i will not touch them yet.

I put about 140 miles on her on two days, of easy riding. Nothing off road. The first thing i think i need to do is something with the factory seat. As it seems to be vibrating my ass/legs to sleep after about 30 minutes of ridding.

I did put the tool pouch under the seat/top of the battery so i am not sure if that's creating more surface contact and making more vibration.

Will look in some of the other threads for a solution to the seat.


Thank you everyone that has posted here and offer some suggestion.
 
papi4baby said:
Awesome tip.


I did do the power up kit, and remove the labyrinth on the intake box.

I check the bolts on the started switch after 100 miles and they are tight so i will not touch them yet.

I put about 140 miles on her on two days, of easy riding. Nothing off road. The first thing i think i need to do is something with the factory seat. As it seems to be vibrating my ass/legs to sleep after about 30 minutes of ridding.

I did put the tool pouch under the seat/top of the battery so i am not sure if that's creating more surface contact and making more vibration.

Will look in some of the other threads for a solution to the seat.


Thank you everyone that has posted here and offer some suggestion.
Click to expand...
I'd find another home for that tool pouch. I leave mine at home for regular around-town riding. If I'm going off road, or on a trip, tools go in the luggage. If your battery terminals wear a hole in that thin plastic tool pouch, you've just shorted your battery with a wrench; probably a good way to start a fire.
 
I never carry tools under the seat, plus the stock tool kit is just not adequate. They go in my Wolfman Enduro Bags for short trips, or the Woldman saddle bags for longer jaunts. Tire repair stuff goes in my Wolfman carry all over the headlight, and the bike prop is strapped on top of that.

My Seat Concepts saddle is doing fine, and its not expensive if you do the install yourself. I had them do my WR, but I did the Husky, and can't tell the difference.
 
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