• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Husqvarna 510 Liquid Cooled Cylinder issues...

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P1010202.JPG Some of the 510s that were made in Italy came out with Magnesium Cylinders around 1988/89. I have just swapped out this corroded Magnesium alloy cylinder (the Nickasil plated liner presses out) for an Aluminium unit that was the warranty replacement part. The coolant leaks into the bottom end via corroding through the cylinder stud holes and out into the cam chain tunnel...P1010201.JPG
 
I happen to have a 1988 te510. Is there a way besides getting some chips off it to tell if it is magnesium? Do you have an opinion as to whether corrosion of this type generally happened when water as opposed to anti freeze solution was used or if modern antifreeze has additives so this is not so much an issue now?
 
I can remember reading a post over at Thumpertalk,where George / Uptite had a process of heating up JB Weld epoxy,then spreading it around with a popsickle stick to fill in the corrosion pits and seal it up.
 
The 88 model will be alloy not magnesium. It's easy to tell - just check inside the water gallery's where the hoses attach and if you see gunk and furry stuff growing then its magnesium! Alloy will be nice and clean.

I have a mag barrel on my 87 510 TE that is in reasonable condition with only minor corrosion damage. I now use the waterless coolant in it and it seems to be staying good. Corrosion has stopped or slowed dramatically. I use a local brew called Liquid Intelligence 115 ..yes it's true, intelligent liquid! It supposedly has nano particles to help heat absorption and is also good for running increased heat loads without boiling. It must be good because it's cost $50 per liter.....I believe Evans make a similar waterless coolant. Prior to the magic coolant I used to drain the el cheapo auto mart stuff and drain it out after every ride and it was a major pain and I don't think it did much good in stopping the mag from rotting.
 
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