Ideal sag 2014 TE310 - all stock

[SLL]

Manual says 100 mm for cold shock. Anyone running slightly more or less?

Also what is ideal static sag for the 310 ? Reading online you get various quotes of 20mm to 50mm being "in range". That is a huge spread and once I set sag I need to know if I am good on springs.

Right now I am set at 105 and 35 and it feels stiff.

Help please.

 

[Boogie]

Have a read of this http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/vinduros-suspension-setup-recommendations.17836

your numbers seem good using vinduros formula

 

[R_Little]

yup, looks good to me.

The stifness is not the spring.
Turn clickers out and if the suspension is new it will need to break in.

 

[SLL]

Thanks for the replies.

It seems that I am in the range for my weight but my concern is that I am heavily preloaded. My collar is approximately 60% tightened down on the threads. That seems like a lot of preload to me and rear feels firm initially.

Is it true that I could go stiffer on my spring to get the same sag with less preload and would this make things more plush initially?

Bike has 950 miles, so I assume everything is broken in.

 

[robertaccio]

static @ 35mm with race sag at @ 100mm puts the rear in good balance. spring too light you will have short static and to be really proper not much more than 10mm of preload (some say up to 12mm) on your spring, most springs say 54-260 for example 260mm being the overall length usually one revolution of the spring collar is 1mm so if you put a mark on your collar you can count turns of preload

 

[robertaccio]

on these bike it always seemed that I was way open on the HSCD like almost max 2 turns, your spring sounds to be proper, try big clicker movements, and even try to tighter on LSCD sometimes its counterintuitive and stiffer LSCD adds to a more solid but not harsh feeling.

 

[NCSteve]

Thanks for the replies.

It seems that I am in the range for my weight but my concern is that I am heavily preloaded. My collar is approximately 60% tightened down on the threads. That seems like a lot of preload to me and rear feels firm initially.

Is it true that I could go stiffer on my spring to get the same sag with less preload and would this make things more plush initially?

Bike has 950 miles, so I assume everything is broken in.

That sounds like way too much spring preload to me. Are you sure? Best is to remove the subframe so you can get an accurate measurement, spring should be @ 260mm with no preload, more than @ 10mm preload=you need a stronger spring.
I'm @ 175lbs fully geared up, using a 5.0 spring with @ 7mm preload, sag is near perfect, ride is plush but not sloppy, very little HSCD like Robert says. Still playing with Rebound damping and LSCD. Overall happy with the Sachs rear damper, though I did pick up a Ti YZ spring I'm going to try soon.
Best part is once I got the shock in the ballpark the front started acting right too.

 

[SLL]

Ok. Help me make sure I am understanding this correctly. One revolution of the collar represents "approximately" 1MM of preload and my goal is less than 10MM? If I am over 10, I need a stiffer spring?

I am full soft (open) on HS and LS compression dampening. Weigh 180 / No gear; so probably 200 with gear. I am guessing that I am too preloaded just to get the back end to sit at the correct rider sag.

My ultimate goal is a plush ride and I don't want to go straight to having everything re-valved if I can get stock valving to perform fine.

 

[SLL]

Also, I can not tell from the crazy manual what my stock spring is. I have a 2014 "Anniversary edition" TE310R and apparently there were a few different versions sent to the US. Is it stamped on the spring somewhere?

 

[robertaccio]

Ok. Help me make sure I am understanding this correctly. One revolution of the collar represents "approximately" 1MM of preload and my goal is less than 10MM? If I am over 10, I need a stiffer spring

Yes is the answer, (Ok there is a little fluff space so if you have 12 you could stick with that spring) The problem is if your spring is too light you can preload the crap out of it to get your race sag/ride height but you will now find spring harshness because you are overloading the spring its at the end of its "spring" movement it "binds", its better to allow more coil movement with a heavier spring, makes sense to think of it that way, no?
the metric thread pitch on shocks is normally 1mm so easy enough every preload ring revolution is mathematically 1mm

 

[NCSteve]

Also, I can not tell from the crazy manual what my stock spring is. I have a 2014 "Anniversary edition" TE310R and apparently there were a few different versions sent to the US. Is it stamped on the spring somewhere?

I think unless it's stamped the only way to tell is to have it tested, no telling what's actually installed. I think they were using up whatever they had by '14 None of my springs were stamped or marked, but the 5.0 I bought was.
Look around, read, search here, most all has been discussed already. I posted a wanted ad and got a great deal on a nearly new 5.0 spring. You can use the RaceTech calculator to determine proper spring rates, then go a step or 2 softer, which worked for me on both front and back.

 

[SLL]

I measured a rough preload using the collar and I am preloaded approximately 21mm. So obviously I need a heavier spring.

Any suggestions on how many I should go up?

Also can someone tell me what brand / model shock I have so I can make sure I order a correct spring since there are no markings anywhere.

2014 TE310R.

 

[SLL]

Also is there a model cross reference I can use when I search online? In other words is it the same spring in a 20xx YZ250, etc.. since most online stores don't have the TE310R in their filters.

 

[R_Little]

I measured a rough preload using the collar and I am preloaded approximately 21mm. So obviously I need a heavier spring.

Any suggestions on how many I should go up?

Also can someone tell me what brand / model shock I have so I can make sure I order a correct spring since there are no markings anywhere.

2014 TE310R.

You are thinking this way too much.
If you have the correct static and rider sag you are good on the spring.
Most likely you have a 5.0 maybe 5.2 spring. if you weigh around 180 the spring is good. Your sag is good.

There are many other adjustments besides rear spring weight, and they all play a part.

How high in the clamps are your forks? What is your front sag? Are your forks twisted in the clamps?
hi and lo speed compression as noted above.
Too much rear rebound damping will make the rear feel stiff. Try to back it out until the rear gets bouncy, then back in.
How much tire pressure?
Here's a good tip...ECEA Enduros run sand in the spring and rocks in the summer. I use a trials tire in the rocks with a tubliss and 6# in the rear and my sand shock feels great in the rocks.

Basically, I try to set the bike up to turn and deal with the ride quality secondarily.

Frankly, I never really notice stiffness in the rear. The forks are usually the culprit.

 

[NCSteve]

I measured a rough preload using the collar and I am preloaded approximately 21mm. So obviously I need a heavier spring.

Any suggestions on how many I should go up?

Also can someone tell me what brand / model shock I have so I can make sure I order a correct spring since there are no markings anywhere.

2014 TE310R.

Did you measure the length of the spring?
RaceTech makes springs for our Sachs shocks and for the Kayaba forks too. Go through the process on their site and it will calculate the proper spring rate. If you want plush then go one or 2 steps down in rate, IMO.
You can call Hall's or Bill's for help too. They probably have springs in stock and both places are excellent to deal with.