Hey everyone. I have lurked here a bunch for information, but never actually registered. I decided to share information that I have and hopefully get some in return. I currently have a 2013 TE449 which I bought new in july 2013. with an FMF and Power Commander V on the way to fix my stalling issues and compensate for the pipe, I felt id better get my racetech gold valves taken care of.
Purchased the Gold valves #FMGV 2840 (I believe) and used my Racetech suspension bible to read up on the procedure of revalving. I have never revalved, but I have taken apart dampening rod forks before. Although the open cartridge were different, they were fairly easy to handle.
Tools I found that were required-
Impact wrench with 14mm HEX bit (If I remember the size correctly) is extremely helpful, but not needed if you have the CARTRIDGE HOLDING TOOL
Regular socket set with 10-19mm sockets/wrenches
Torque wrench with in lbs and ft lbs. You will need up to 48 ft lbs and as low as 20 or so in lbs
Flat head screw driver
Micrometer capable of measuring down to .10 mm
**CARTRIDGE HOLDING TOOL** Racetech apparently has the correct size tool for 85 DOLLARS. I found that the motion pro tool was too small for the 48mm KYB and bought 1in conduit pipe and made a tool. In order for it to work I had to use a grinder and cut four spaces in the end of the pipe even widths, about 3/4 in deep. I then bent the 4 tabs in at a 45 degree, and bent them again half way down another 45 out to make it fit. The 1 inch conduit was slightly too wide which Is why I had to bend the tabs. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole at the end of the 17 inch pipe 1 inch from the end in order to insert a screw driver to hold it in place.
After some grinding, test fitting, grinding, bending, and filing for smoothness (followed by brake clean blasting and compressed air) the tool was complete and worked great. 10 dollars and 1 hour of my time vs 85 dollars.
The husqvarna factory manual does an excellent job of illustrating how to take apart the forks and I dont feel I need to go in to detail, just be careful and cognizant of the damage that can be caused from carelessness.
The only thing I would add is to ensure your valve stacks are the same size as the OEM Valve. One tip I would suggest is doing one valve at a time. Take apart one valve, set out all pieces and then find the shim stack you want and build it on a zip tie. I built both shim stacks at the same time and triple checked for accuracy. This kept them from getting mixed up, or a shim falling out. Then you must install the shim stack in the correct order and measure how much excess there is above the top nut. You need to use washers and/or the stock shims to make the nut sit right at the top (which is why its nice to have the second valve still assembled to cross-check).
The instructions were vague to me, but you need to use only shims and washers which are larger in diameter than the bottom most shim in your cH (high speed) stack. The spacers will be place between the base plate washer and the bottom most cH shim. Ensure red loctite from the package is used and a hammer/chisel or whatever you have is used to spread the aluminum stud slightly over the top of the nut. A little pressure goes a long way with the aluminum stud, so dont destroy it with a HULK SMASH hammer strike.
Here is my setup
Woods/trail rider 7 years experience-Intermediate "C" class
cL-4
cH-5
Fork Compression-12 out (Counter clockwise)
Rebound- 8 out (Counter clockwise)
5 WT MOTUL fork oil
110MM from top fluid level
I am VERY VERY VERY pleased with the ride now. I picked these settings based on research as the digital valving system on RaceTech doesn't have any settings listed and I did the install on a weekend. I will call them this week and see what their "recommended" shim stacks are and see how close I am.
I hit some 1 foot square edge cement blocks at various speeds from 0-10 mph and the bike literally took all of the shock and rolled right up. I couldnt believe how amazing the shock absorption was. I rode at 30-45mph across 4-6 inch ruts from 4x4s mudding and although there was some vibration and feedback (cant be completely perfect) it was SO much better than the harsh wrist slamming feeling that the suspension had before the revalve. I havent hit any large jumps as I mostly ride trails and woods and dont intentionally jump anyways, but im hoping there will be no bottoming with this plushness. I adjusted the rear a bit softer and I am EXTREMELY happy with the results of the new valved suspension.
I cannot believe how much less fatigued I will be from riding. The suspension is truly excellent now, and I havent even spent a day dialing in the clickers yet.
Purchased the Gold valves #FMGV 2840 (I believe) and used my Racetech suspension bible to read up on the procedure of revalving. I have never revalved, but I have taken apart dampening rod forks before. Although the open cartridge were different, they were fairly easy to handle.
Tools I found that were required-
Impact wrench with 14mm HEX bit (If I remember the size correctly) is extremely helpful, but not needed if you have the CARTRIDGE HOLDING TOOL
Regular socket set with 10-19mm sockets/wrenches
Torque wrench with in lbs and ft lbs. You will need up to 48 ft lbs and as low as 20 or so in lbs
Flat head screw driver
Micrometer capable of measuring down to .10 mm
**CARTRIDGE HOLDING TOOL** Racetech apparently has the correct size tool for 85 DOLLARS. I found that the motion pro tool was too small for the 48mm KYB and bought 1in conduit pipe and made a tool. In order for it to work I had to use a grinder and cut four spaces in the end of the pipe even widths, about 3/4 in deep. I then bent the 4 tabs in at a 45 degree, and bent them again half way down another 45 out to make it fit. The 1 inch conduit was slightly too wide which Is why I had to bend the tabs. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole at the end of the 17 inch pipe 1 inch from the end in order to insert a screw driver to hold it in place.
After some grinding, test fitting, grinding, bending, and filing for smoothness (followed by brake clean blasting and compressed air) the tool was complete and worked great. 10 dollars and 1 hour of my time vs 85 dollars.
The husqvarna factory manual does an excellent job of illustrating how to take apart the forks and I dont feel I need to go in to detail, just be careful and cognizant of the damage that can be caused from carelessness.
The only thing I would add is to ensure your valve stacks are the same size as the OEM Valve. One tip I would suggest is doing one valve at a time. Take apart one valve, set out all pieces and then find the shim stack you want and build it on a zip tie. I built both shim stacks at the same time and triple checked for accuracy. This kept them from getting mixed up, or a shim falling out. Then you must install the shim stack in the correct order and measure how much excess there is above the top nut. You need to use washers and/or the stock shims to make the nut sit right at the top (which is why its nice to have the second valve still assembled to cross-check).
The instructions were vague to me, but you need to use only shims and washers which are larger in diameter than the bottom most shim in your cH (high speed) stack. The spacers will be place between the base plate washer and the bottom most cH shim. Ensure red loctite from the package is used and a hammer/chisel or whatever you have is used to spread the aluminum stud slightly over the top of the nut. A little pressure goes a long way with the aluminum stud, so dont destroy it with a HULK SMASH hammer strike.
Here is my setup
Woods/trail rider 7 years experience-Intermediate "C" class
cL-4
cH-5
Fork Compression-12 out (Counter clockwise)
Rebound- 8 out (Counter clockwise)
5 WT MOTUL fork oil
110MM from top fluid level
I am VERY VERY VERY pleased with the ride now. I picked these settings based on research as the digital valving system on RaceTech doesn't have any settings listed and I did the install on a weekend. I will call them this week and see what their "recommended" shim stacks are and see how close I am.
I hit some 1 foot square edge cement blocks at various speeds from 0-10 mph and the bike literally took all of the shock and rolled right up. I couldnt believe how amazing the shock absorption was. I rode at 30-45mph across 4-6 inch ruts from 4x4s mudding and although there was some vibration and feedback (cant be completely perfect) it was SO much better than the harsh wrist slamming feeling that the suspension had before the revalve. I havent hit any large jumps as I mostly ride trails and woods and dont intentionally jump anyways, but im hoping there will be no bottoming with this plushness. I adjusted the rear a bit softer and I am EXTREMELY happy with the results of the new valved suspension.
I cannot believe how much less fatigued I will be from riding. The suspension is truly excellent now, and I havent even spent a day dialing in the clickers yet.
