• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Installing new cylinder base gasket question

S

sbeec

Husqvarna
C Class
Hello there-
Just pulled my cylinder off my '83 430 WR to replace the base gasket
(I didn't retorque the head nuts/bolts after the initial run :doh:). I actually lost a stud nut before the gasket blew.

Heres my questions::confused:

1- does the gasket go in dry (no sealer)?
2- one stud had water in the stud void and the stud had some surface rust - I wire brushed the stud and will lightly grease for corrosion prevention - anything else to do?

Anything else I need to look for??
thanks- Rich
 
This is actually a very common situation and lots of us run into this. That motor design tends to accumulate a LOT of dirt around the cylinder studs. In fact, they're famous for dumping all that dirt into the crankcase when you lift the cylinder. Yuck. Then it takes lots of work to flush that junk out, otherwise you risk damaging the crank and rod bearings. I've tried sealing the space around the studs where they poke through the top of the cylinder, before putting the head down. Sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't. One of those expanding foam type glues, like gorilla would work.

I've just made it a habit of turning the whole bike upside down to remove a cylinder. I don't LIKE that dirt falling in there. The one in the photos was so badly corroded that I removed the studs to clean them.

But ya, re-torquing a couple times is sometimes needed until everything is settled. Those studs, being through-bolts, let the cylinder float a bit between the cases and the head. There's lots of expansion/contraction with heat.
 

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I have found that spray on copper head gasket sealant to be the hot set up.
Goes on light, dries tacky and no post torque down ooze.

The tackiness is great for other gaskets as it aids in positioning.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm going with a dry gasket. I've cleaned the case and bottom of the barrel spotless. Wire brush and light grease on the studs. The barrel is on and the cyl head. Just torque things down and viola!

I did ponder one thing though....the gap in the rings were in the back center and right above each other....this may sound stupid but how does that hold the compression in during firing?
I wish I'd started working on these motors long ago.....when I was still young and asking a question like that was okay LOL !!
 
update

put the gasket in dry. torqued 25 and 14 ftlbs. Runs good in the garage- I'll finish the details tomorrow and rip in the drive way. Re-torque after a couple hours of riding.
More later.......
 
Rick Horvat (216) 870-4121 has two differant thicknesses of base gaskets for anyone interested in adjusting piston squish.

They are available in .043 and .057 these are the good quality reinforced gasket material.:thumbsup:
 
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