• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Intake valve getting tight

S

socaltrailrider

Husqvarna
A Class
My bike was hard to start this past weekend, so I pulled the valve cover and checked the valves today. The intakes were tight. Exhaust were in spec. I reshimmed both intakes and have the proper clearance now. 2.15 shim in the left and a 1.90 in the right. Bike started easily after that. I bought the bike used, and the shim size was wore off the shims, so I don't know how much they moved. They were all in spec when I checked them the first time about 30 hours ago. My question is, now that they are moving, how muct time do I have left before I need to replace the valves? Secondly, how much am I looking at spending to have the head rebuilt? Thanks!
 
Coffee;65204 said:
You have a 2004 250. I have heard that particular year had some issues, there was a way to tell if the bikes were susceptible, hot start on handlebar? decompressor on handle bar? Something like that.

Here is one of many links, Dave Hopkins knows these types of things.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774640
Click to expand...

Thanks Dean, mine is the newer valve train. If the decomp. lever is stand alone, it is the earier valve train, if it is incorporated with the hydro clutch, it's the newer. Thanks for the link.
 
socaltrailrider;65199 said:
My bike was hard to start this past weekend, so I pulled the valve cover and checked the valves today. The intakes were tight. Exhaust were in spec. I reshimmed both intakes and have the proper clearance now. 2.15 shim in the left and a 1.90 in the right. Bike started easily after that. I bought the bike used, and the shim size was wore off the shims, so I don't know how much they moved. They were all in spec when I checked them the first time about 30 hours ago. My question is, now that they are moving, how muct time do I have left before I need to replace the valves? Secondly, how much am I looking at spending to have the head rebuilt? Thanks!
Click to expand...

How many over all hours are on the bike? Do you know if they were shimmed before at all? Once they have been shimmed once, they will start moving faster& faster between each time they get re-shimmed. I'm not sure how many times you can get away with re-shimming them before the top-end should be rebuilt, but I'd guess it's only 2-3 times. (someone who knows this could chime in on this.........)
 
You can measure the shim with a caliper. Ride it. If it goes quicker than you think it should pull the head and do the valves. Don't re-shim again if it goes quick as your asking for trouble. Pulling the head is EZ if you have basic mechanical skills. Then take the head to a competent bike head dude. Should not cost a fortune.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I checked my maintenance log and it looks like it's only been 19 hours since I checked them last. I think I am more inclined to just have the head work done now than have to wonder everytime I ride if I'm going to have a valve drop. Going to head over and see George today at lunch.
 
if i had to put a # on it i would say it is safe to go down to a 165 or a 170 shim.i think it can be dangerous using shims thinner than that to acheive proper clearance.what you are describing is fairly common for this model.unfortunately you will probably be adjusting your valves very frequently untill you have valves replaced and head machined.dan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top