Intermittent Electrical issues TE511

[Freekman]

So I am back on here with some more electrical issues. I know you guys aren't going to be able to give me a definite answer, but I just want some suggestions. Like 3 weeks ago my bike started and stopped running as soon as I let out the clutch. I found out that the battery was bad (fully charged to 8v overnight outside of the bike) I ordered a EarthX and installed it. Took the bike out for a few quick rides, maybe like 15 minutes 4 times over the course of 2 weeks, but never got to do a real ride. Today I took the bike out and it died on the highway while I was on the throttle. It started again a couple of more times then nothing (no solenoid click, no turn over). I tested battery at home and it got 12V I pulled my bazaaz, because I have had problems before. The bike starts up, with the clutch switch in place and with it jumped. I looked for damaged connectors and didn't see any. I don't really know what to do now and I am hesitant to be stranded again. What should I look at?

 

[Shovelhead85]

....Took the bike out for a few quick rides, maybe like 15 minutes 4 times over the course of 2 weeks, but never got to do a real ride. Today I took the bike out and it died on the highway while I was on the throttle. It started again a couple of more times then nothing (no solenoid click, no turn over)...

Bad charging system perhaps? confirm that you see 13.5-14.5volts dc across the battery terminals when it's running.

 

[Tinken]

Did your bike continue to fail with the Bazaaz removed?

 

[Huskynoobee]

If you got just 12v from an Earth X, there's gotta be an issue. Shovel has a great suggestion along those lines. You may have a bad regulator.

I don't know much about Bazazz, but if removing it made a difference it's a good idea to leave it out. Have you had the ECU flash done?

 

[Freekman]

So I tested the bike without the bazzaaz in and I don't think the charging system is working. I got low 13 V while running (earthx was fully charged) I tested the rectifier and it seemed to be ok. I am now going to try to test the stator, but I am confused as to how to do it. I have been reading this thread that I just found http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/finally-had-a-failure-on-my-te511.36513/ do I unplug the regulator then test the voltages or is the circuit supposed to be complete before testing. If the strator turns out to be good can I just assume it is the regulator and replace that unit?

 

[Freekman]

Alright so I tested the stator and got an oc across all the terminals then 0V coming out. So I am assuming the stator is completely shot. Does anybody know of good rewinding service in america for our bikes

 

[Shovelhead85]

Alright so I tested the stator and got an oc across all the terminals then 0V coming out. So I am assuming the stator is completely shot. Does anybody know of good rewinding service in america for our bikes

Single phase? -maybe you could do it yourself.

...or is Ricky Stator still in business maybe?

Hell, take it out and take a look, the fix might be easy; OR you might've had the flywheel bolts come loose (a known 511 problem):
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-important-urgent-flywheel-inspection.45218/

 

[Freekman]

Single phase? -maybe you could do it yourself.

...or is Ricky Stator still in business maybe?

Hell, take it out and take a look, the fix might be easy; OR you might've had the flywheel bolts come loose (a known 511 problem):
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-important-urgent-flywheel-inspection.45218/

crap crap crap. I think that this might be the issue. I have though too have heard a a rattle at some when starting the bike. Imma pop the cover off this weekend and hope for the best. I will do some searching on how to recoil the the stator but are there any good guides out there you guys know of off the top of you head?

 

[Shovelhead85]

... I will do some searching on how to recoil the the stator but are there any good guides out there you guys know of off the top of you head?

Don't get too far ahead of yourself; let's worry about problems 1 thru 4 first... ....& we'll tackle problem #9 when we're a little closer.

 

[Freekman]

Don't get to far ahead of yourself; let's worry about problems 1 thru 4 first... ....& we'll tackle problem #9 when we're a little closer.

very true, ill pop the cover off and show ou guys what I see this weekend

 

[Freekman]

alright so I need a new generator officially. I think I am going to get the g450x one from bike bandit since it is 350 but I am just hoping I can get it relatively quickly. While my bike is down, are there anything common problems that I should check for? Also I need a flywheel puller, what is a good one for the price? it didn't seem like zip ty had any for the 511s

View attachment 55835

 

[Shovelhead85]

alright so I need a new generator officially. I think I am going to get the g450x one from bike bandit since it is 350 but I am just hoping I can get it relatively quickly....

sorry to hear about this. I think I remember something about the keyway/key being different in the g450x vs 511, but I CRS. It may be as simple as a using key that is thick on one end and thin on the other, if this is the case.

BTW, this is what killed your first battery (being deep-discharged/recharged)- although it still may be usable. In fact, while you wait for parts, you could (MAYBE? anyone?) clean everything up, button it up and ride still- you'd just be riding on a "total loss" electrical system (but put a switch on the headlight... you could probably ride for 2 days before you need a recharge if you turn it off). I might flush the case out with diesel or kerosene to get the chunks out though. It's gonna mostly be copper which is relatively soft, but I still would prefer to have the cleanest bottom end possible (that sounds kinda weird). Change the oil 2-3 times in the first few miles, depending on what your filters are telling you.

It's hard to tell in your images, but you may be able to rewind the stator. If there is no damage the the laminated-metal body (IOW if only the windings are damaged) there is a minor chance.

I am getting out of my area of familiarity with the 449/511; I never got this deep into my son's bike. I would suggest you post on the pre-existing thread and tap into that knowledge.

good luck.

 

[Freekman]

sorry to hear about this. I think I remember something about the keyway/key being different in the g450x vs 511, but I CRS. It may be as simple as a using key that is thick on one end and thin on the other, if this is the case.

BTW, this is what killed your first battery (being deep-discharged/recharged)- although it still may be usable. In fact, while you wait for parts, you could (MAYBE? anyone?) clean everything up, button it up and ride still- you'd just be riding on a "total loss" electrical system (but put a switch on the headlight... you could probably ride for 2 days before you need a recharge if you turn it off). I might flush the case out with diesel or kerosene to get the chunks out though. It's gonna mostly be copper which is relatively soft, but I still would prefer to have the cleanest bottom end possible (that sounds kinda weird). Change the oil 2-3 times in the first few miles, depending on what your filters are telling you.

It's hard to tell in your images, but you may be able to rewind the stator. If there is no damage the the laminated-metal body (IOW if only the windings are damaged) there is a minor chance.

I am getting out of my area of familiarity with the 449/511; I never got this deep into my son's bike. I would suggest you post on the pre-existing thread and tap into that knowledge.

good luck.

Thanks for the help I may consider riding, but just need to keep an eye on the voltages. Big Timmy said that the generator assemblies are exactly the same in both bike, so I am kinda taking his word for it. as far as rewinding goes, might be nice to have an extra if mine gets fried in the future. Ill probably send some more detailed pics to a professional.

 

[Huskynoobee]

Timmy has both engines and knows his stuff.

 

[Freekman]

Timmy has both engines and knows his stuff.

so it turns out the alternators AREN'T exactly the same. They have a different key just like shovel head said. I am trying to see if adapters are made or if I can get it machined somehow, especially since I don't think I can return the generator I bought from bike bandit.

 

[Shovelhead85]

so it turns out the alternators AREN'T exactly the same. They have a different key just like shovel head said. I am trying to see if adapters are made or if I can get it machined somehow, especially since I don't think I can return the generator I bought from bike bandit.

well, like I said... I don't know 511's this deep. Could you use the beemer stator & the husky rotor? (I assuming here that it's the rotor that has the key since it spins... I could be WAY wrong; the parts manual is remarkably fuzzy on the subject. I'm looking at table 19, pg 52 2012 TE511 parts manual)

definitely get involved in the flywheel bolt thread. Seems like those Australian guys have found & solved this problem. BT has experience with both motors... have you talked directly to him?

also, I was wondering if a TC449 stator is cheaper; maybe you could have someone re-wind it if it doesn't have the full lighting windings on it already.

you still (possibly?) could ride the bike while you wait; a total-loss electrical system only has to worry about low voltage- and if the starter can't turn it over... bump start it. you should have enough electrical energy to get home (sans lights, signals etc).

 

[Freekman]

well, like I said... I don't know 511's this deep. Could you use the beemer stator & the husky rotor? (I assuming here that it's the rotor that has the key since it spins... I could be WAY wrong; the parts manual is remarkably fuzzy on the subject. I'm looking at table 19, pg 52 2012 TE511 parts manual)

definitely get involved in the flywheel bolt thread. Seems like those Australian guys have found & solved this problem. BT has experience with both motors... have you talked directly to him?

also, I was wondering if a TC449 stator is cheaper; maybe you could have someone re-wind it if it doesn't have the full lighting windings on it already.

you still (possibly?) could ride the bike while you wait; a total-loss electrical system only has to worry about low voltage- and if the starter can't turn it over... bump start it. you should have enough electrical energy to get home (sans lights, signals etc).

Yeah I am looking for a second hand husky flywheel, that would solve the issue. None of the other threads seem to have any solutions to the woodruff key. I don't think that rewrapping it is going to be an option anymore, because after comparing mine to the new one parts of the core are broken off. The TC and the TE have the same stator (same part no). Luckily I have access to a machine shop at school so I'm going to ask those guys if they can help me out on monday. I am considering either A. running a total loss system or B. putting new stator in old flywheel (after thorough cleaning) which has 3 shredded magnets, therfore I am assuming it would just generate less electricity. I saw there is another user, motomanic, who is in the same struggle as me who has been posting about it earlier this month. I messaged him to see if he had success machining the woodruff key. I am also going to message BT now, but I have a feeling he never actually swapped the two stators, it is a very minuet difference that nobody would notice unless they actually did the switch.

 

[Shovelhead85]

Yeah I am looking for a second hand husky flywheel, that would solve the issue. None of the other threads seem to have any solutions to the woodruff key. I don't think that rewrapping it is going to be an option anymore, because after comparing mine to the new one parts of the core are broken off. The TC and the TE have the same stator (same part no). Luckily I have access to a machine shop at school so I'm going to ask those guys if they can help me out on monday. I am considering either A. running a total loss system or B. putting new stator in old flywheel (after thorough cleaning) which has 3 shredded magnets, therfore I am assuming it would just generate less electricity. I saw there is another user, motomanic, who is in the same struggle as me who has been posting about it earlier this month. I messaged him to see if he had success machining the woodruff key. I am also going to message BT now, but I have a feeling he never actually swapped the two stators, it is a very minuet difference that nobody would notice unless they actually did the switch.

Sorry, but running total-loss is out of the question now. The rotor needs to be balanced- you don't wanna screw up your crank too. In fact I did not even realize the rotor was damaged. How come you didn't go for the husky parts then? cost? 'cause I thought the advantaged of the beemer stuff was that it was sold individually (stator only, in this case)

you could try taking the magnets out of the husky rotor- soak it in acetone for a day-week-month.
If that works, balance the rotor and run it total-loss ...OR put the beemer magnets in it.

still, if you needed both rotor and stator, I'd get both and put the beemer stuff up for sale on eBay or craigslist (and be prepared to wait)

Research is great, but consider actively joining the the thread too. And join the FB group, too.

Ask a machinist about the key- some of these guys are unbelievably canny.
edit: wait... it's the beemer's Rotor slot that's too skinny? find a machine shop that has the right sized broach and you're golden.

 

[Freekman]

Sorry, but running total-loss is out of the question now. The rotor needs to be balanced- you don't wanna screw up your crank too. In fact I did not even realize the rotor was damaged. How come you didn't go for the husky parts then? cost? 'cause I thought the advantaged of the beemer stuff was that it was sold individually (stator only, in this case)

you could try taking the magnets out of the husky rotor- soak it in acetone for a day-week-month.
If that works, balance the rotor and run it total-loss ...OR put the beemer magnets in it.

still, if you needed both rotor and stator, I'd get both and put the beemer stuff up for sale on eBay or craigslist (and be prepared to wait)

Research is great, but consider actively joining the the thread too. And join the FB group, too.

Ask a machinist about the key- some of these guys are unbelievably canny.
edit: wait... it's the beemer's Rotor slot that's too skinny? find a machine shop that has the right sized broach and you're golden.

Yeah the BMW part was like 80 bucks less, but as far as I know they are still sold as the total unit. I would have gone with the husky part if I had known, but in the warning thread and another one people were saying they were the same so I believed it. I am going to ask around and see if anybody has a husky flywheel with larger slot for sale. BT told me that some of the huskys and some of the BMWs have the thick slot while others have the thin. He suggested that I not get it machined, because it might effect the timing, but I am going to take it and see how confident the machinists would be with the task. I mean the part was originally machined so I don't think it would make too much of a difference to just open the slot a little more. At the same time if they mess that part up I am out at least $200. I kinda poked around in the flywheel and I don't think that transferring the magnets is really something that can be done. There is a foil cover then the magnets are pretty well secured to the flywheel.

EDIT: somebody just re-listed one off a 2013 that I saw couple weeks ago. I just bought it for 180 bucks it is just the rotor so I will have to use the bolts off the BMW one to attach it to the backplate thing (i don't know what it is called or what it does). I am gonna be selling mine now so ill try to get replacement bolts or part it out like this guy did.

 

[Freekman]

So I installed the proper flywheel yesterday, and everything seems to be working fine, except I get a clack noise when I start and shutoff the bike. I don't remeber if this used to happen or not, but from what I have read it is indicative of a starter clutch problem. I don't think that the plate itself is damaged in anyway, but I may have stretched the springs out that wrap around the shaft. How urgent do you think this problem is? Could I go on a ride this weekend?

EDIT: When I put the flywheel back in I was only able to turn it 1 way by hand. The clutch did slip a couple out times when I was trying to pull the flywheel though (under a lot of torque). Does anybody know of a sprag spring replacements that would fit?