• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Keeping the Voltage Regulator Alive

Holy shit just opened this thread out of interest, I've got a 2001 610, hope it doesn't have this problem. Anyway is your bike brand new from the factory? It sure as hell looks it. Good advice and a helpful guide for those this 630s.
 
Hi, KXCam

My case, not only the red wire gets hot, also de yellow ones. Yesterday I touched them when the voltage tester indicated that VR was charging only at 12,20V! and they was really hot (also the VR, of course)

The funny thing is that when I moved the wires a little bit, the voltage tester went from 12,2 V to more than 13,0 V. What do you think may can happen?
On the other side, sorry I don’t understand where you connect the red wire. I assume you cut it to join at this point another wire which you connect to another point. To what point?

Thanks
 
As I was not sure about the proper thick of the black wires but due I had them at home, I put two units that I’ll connect directly to the battery.
BTW, red and yellow wires are covered with green tape to cover small fraying areas.
The heat compound really “works” between VR and aluminum plate as both pieces get sort of stuck

Hope it will decrease VR temperature…
SANY5228.JPG
 
Hi Cam. I was wondering if it is correct to put a wire directly from VR red wire connector to the battery (with a fuse in the middle, of course). According to the electric diagram, the red VR wire doesn’t go directly to the battery, and I wonder if there is a reason why. The red wire goes to the solenoid starter and to one of the fuses (and from there to a lot of places, but not directly to the battery) What do you think?

I don't know how the VR "knows" the amount of voltage that have to put into the battery (according to the battery load), I mean, which wire (or wires) "informs" to the VR of this fact. If you wire directly to the battery, could the VR "get confused"?

Thank you

Esquema electrico 1.jpg

Esquema electrico 2.jpg

I also wonder why you don't have the fuse I show you...

New VR to Battery Fuse Holder.jpg
 
Yes, Cam, you’re right :thumbsup:

SANY5256.JPG

The red wire from the VR goes to the “A” connection. “A” goes to “B” through the 20Amp fuse, and finally B goes right to the battery. So, make sense that if we connect VR red wire to the battery before it connects to the solenoid starter, we won’t damage a thing.

A good research would be to know if I’m the only one that have had “A” connector burnt (please, see here: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/should-i-change-the-voltage-regulator.83706/page-3 )


If I’m not the only one, then we could drive to the conclusion that “A” is a weak point in the charging system that "needs help" through another wire right to the battery (with an inline fuse), as Cam says.
 
I think my R/R is faulty, I may replace it with a new one and do this fix. I've noticed a slight drop in voltage when the throttle is opened up.

When you do the power wire, it seems counterintuitive to splice the thin wire of the plug to a 10 gauge wire to the battery.

Also I am not clear, do you simply reroute the positive and ground to the battery and lose the existing connections? Or do they have to still go to the relay to power something else, like the instrument panel?

Also, I have a 610, does this fix apply to it or would it be a waste of time/money? Like does the less sophiscated carbed engine not draw as many amps?
 
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