• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Kickback.... No starting, just kickback ..

ray_ray

ray_ray

Mini-Sponsor
Why would a modern 4T engine kickback over and over and never start? Aren't kickbacks from a kick starter a thing of the past eliminated by the auto-compression releases?

My bike will not start easily (> 10 kicks always ... usually > 20 ) , cold or hot and I get massive kickbacks from the engine ...Some hard enough to maybe crack the engine cases if my foot were not on the kicker ...

Is this some clue into why the bike will not start?
 
The first thing that comes to my mind is timing and the second thing is too. Valves-Ignition.:excuseme:

How long you been living with this "situation"?
 
Xcuvator said:
The first thing that comes to my mind is timing and the second thing is too. Valves-Ignition.:excuseme:

How long you been living with this "situation"?
Click to expand...

The valve clearances we OK except for 1 intake valve being .001 too loose ...

I got this bike about a month ago ... maybe out of 200 kicks, it has started for me 10 times ... Usually just push if off when I try to ride it ...

But, I had a rider here who cranked in 10 kicks or less 98% of the time the 2 days he rode it ...So I'm inclined to think I'm part of the problem, I just don't know how to fix myself ...

I'm stuck with this thing pretty much so I'll check the timing again and there are several posts about the woodruff key issue on the flywheel ...
 
ray_ray said:
The valve clearances we OK except for 1 intake valve being .001 too loose ...

I got this bike about a month ago ... maybe out of 200 kicks, it has started for me 10 times ... Usually just push if off when I try to ride it ...

But, I had a rider here who cranked in 10 kicks or less 98% of the time the 2 days he rode it ...So I'm inclined to think I'm part of the problem, I just don't know how to fix myself ...

I'm stuck with this thing pretty much so I'll check the timing again and there are several posts about the woodruff key issue on the flywheel ...
Click to expand...


After thinking about it, I remembered the sheared key problem. Bill had one that wouldn't start and you'd have to ask him, but I think it was the key. That would throw the timing off and could cause it to kick you.
 
Xcuvator said:
After thinking about it, I remembered the sheared key problem. Bill had one that wouldn't start and you'd have to ask him, but I think it was the key. That would throw the timing off and could cause it to kick you.
Click to expand...
+1 on this. There's been a few threads on this issue.
 
You have to start them like an old school 4 stroke - find compression, nudge the piston just past and then give it a firm push through the full travel of the kick start. If you are still getting kick back when starting like this then you can retard the ignition very slightly by increasing the air gap on the pick up coil. This little 'bodge' is a very effective cure for starting kick back, assuming everything else on the bike is in spec.


Dave
 
HVUK said:
You have to start them like an old school 4 stroke - find compression, nudge the piston just past and then give it a firm push through the full travel of the kick start. If you are still getting kick back when starting like this then you can retard the ignition very slightly by increasing the air gap on the pick up coil. This little 'bodge' is a very effective cure for starting kick back, assuming everything else on the bike is in spec.


Dave
Click to expand...

Thanks and I'll be trying this kicking method shortly ... But what is this air gap on the pick-up coil?

2 more questions ..

1) Is the FW nut left or right-handed threads?
2) How do I hold the crank-shaft so that I can loosen the nut (no air impact driver here)
 
i have seen in the automotive world where some cotton rope is fed into the cyl. through the plug hole to stop the piston from reaching TDC. also air pressure with the right attachment.
 
I would check the camshaft timing to make sure it is correct before altering the ignition side if things.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top