• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Left lever for actionning rear brake on Automatic.

I can't post any pictures of it at this time. On the aluminum swingarm one I created another attachment point just toward the pivot on the lever at the rear backing plate. On the 420 I think I made some steel device up higher off some fastners, I don't use that chain guard piece not sure something up in that area instead of going low. Probably went from that directly to the rod.

I kind of doubt most of the guys on here would ride in the type of rock piles where you get the advantage of having a rear brake while your butt and feet are flying in all sorts of directions. I am sure what I created then could be made more powerful as what I creaed wasn't too effective unless the speeds were quite low.

fran
 
In the same way , you have the 500 AE with rear brake actionned by left or right pedal !
 

Attachments

  • 500 AE cross 83.jpg
    500 AE cross 83.jpg
    76.6 KB · Views: 79
  • 500 auto Bo Edberg 83.jpg
    500 auto Bo Edberg 83.jpg
    105.9 KB · Views: 70
I don't see it.My brain is pretty much hard wired where to go.Can't ride right hand shift bikes either.Same thing on these new electric bikes.I have some riding acreage on my property.I'm looking seriously at these new electric bikes,but not till they put the rear brake where it's suspose to be.It's a motorcycle not a mountain bike.I even switch the brake controls on my bicycle.
 
I don't really see it either. Slam a downshift without the clutch when you think you are going to apply some rear brake and you will most likely see the reasoning. As for the rear brake on the left handlebar that doesn't seem to be a problem going to a normal clutch bike and gives the ability to dab with either foot at any instant while using the back brake. At least I could anticipate this possibility from seeing the trail ahead. For those of us who have the capability to put the auto engine in a more modern chasis with hydaulic rear brake either some fancy valving or adding another caliper would take this to the next level. There is nothing on that left handlebar on the auto anyway. Where or what sort of terrain would someone go to the trouble of making a left brake pedal but not go to the trouble of adding handguards like commonly called bark busters?
 
Rear brake actionned by left and right pedal ( and not or) !
I am thinking of swapping the brake pedal to the left after over 40 years of riding British bikes with the gear change on the right side,(right hand side). I think swapping the gear change brake lever was a cunning plan by .............. to damage the British bike industry. Not that it was not already destroying itself:eek:
 
I don't really see it either. Slam a downshift without the clutch when you think you are going to apply some rear brake and you will most likely see the reasoning. As for the rear brake on the left handlebar that doesn't seem to be a problem going to a normal clutch bike and gives the ability to dab with either foot at any instant while using the back brake. At least I could anticipate this possibility from seeing the trail ahead. For those of us who have the capability to put the auto engine in a more modern chasis with hydaulic rear brake either some fancy valving or adding another caliper would take this to the next level. There is nothing on that left handlebar on the auto anyway. Where or what sort of terrain would someone go to the trouble of making a left brake pedal but not go to the trouble of adding handguards like commonly called bark busters?

You don't have to mount two calipers for a modern hydraulic disc. They make ( or you could cobble) a left hand brake lever that has a fitting that replaces the cap on a modern master cylinder, it then blows through the master cylinder. So you can use the brake pedal or the brake lever. I have that setup on my 2010 ktm 450 with auto clutch. My reason was for braking late into right hand turns as well as multiple left-right combo's when setting down.
 
How about just a left hand operated brake - is the standard cam and arm powerful enough to lock up the husky using hand only? or is there an alternative. On my modern bike im a terrible rear brake dragger in single track (blued disc) and as a mountain biker id be very comfortable with only a hand brake. Im all ears as my 500 ae under resto now would be great with a lh rear brake..
 
It would seem that rear brake cam and drum couldn't be any more powerful than the same thing on the front with the single leading shoe. I suppose one could make like a block and tackle with the cable whether that would work. The mono shock one the brake lever on the brake points up so you could extend that if you felt so inclined. Your 500 ae will coast until you get into high gear and you won't be doing that on single track I would estimate. If you do some stream or swamp crossings on these things in the winter you can totally loose a brake, Well it just doesn't do anything. I have lost both though never at the same time.
 
Just try today. The braking is a little too soft.
Perhaps need to put the cable at the front end of the rear brake pedal .
 

Attachments

  • HPIM1549.JPG
    HPIM1549.JPG
    182.4 KB · Views: 58
  • HPIM1554.JPG
    HPIM1554.JPG
    191.1 KB · Views: 55
I fitted a left hand rear brake lever to my 500AE back in the mid 80's (one of the first made engine No. 3) , used a brake cable to replace the rod (I think it was a Suzuki part) this would then flex when you put the brake on so you didn't have to overcome the force of the pedal return spring. I then lengthened the brake arm to get more leverage and added a fitting for the cable for the hand brake. It wasn't as powerful as using your foot but got me out of trouble when my feet were of the pegs in really nasty situations
 
Hi Automan
Since the last pics, I've put my wire brake just under the rear brake lever.
Can you post pics of your 500 AE ? Thanks
Michel
 
the better is to suppress completely the rear brake pedal and to have the rear brake to left on the handle bar
nothing to the foots:D
 
the better is to suppress completely the rear brake pedal and to have the rear brake to left on the handle bar
nothing to the foots:D
Unless you are an ex mountain bike rider that is likely to induce a certain amount of panic in some situations:lol:
 
it's just as with a bike , the same thing with your mountain bike , no problem it's funny

Michel mais un petit U avec un axe libre sur la pedale et tu passes le stop cable dedans comme sur un frein a tambour AV ,il sera moins tordu
 
I have just purchased a 1977 360 Auto and the left hand lever (clutch lever) actuates the rear brake. The rear brake rod is modified about halfway along and it appears to be a genuine Husqvarna part. When the left hand lever is pulled in, the brake is operated by a long cable going to a point half way along the rear brake rod. This actually forces the rear brake foot lever up so you have to be careful to keep your foot off it while you hand brake. Is this a genuine part? (Offered by Husqvarna) It all looks genuine as far as I can tell but have never seen any pictures of bikes with this modification.
 

Attachments

  • Husqvarna 360 Auto.JPG
    Husqvarna 360 Auto.JPG
    157.7 KB · Views: 26
Has anyone experimented that on his Automatic ?

Hey Michel,
have you considered using an after market "Magura hydraulic clutch" kit to activate the brake as it has more pulling power.
You could set up the slave cylinder to either pull on the foot brake lever or the brake drum lever.
Just another idea to throw around.
 
I have just purchased a 1977 360 Auto and the left hand lever (clutch lever) actuates the rear brake. The rear brake rod is modified about halfway along and it appears to be a genuine Husqvarna part. When the left hand lever is pulled in, the brake is operated by a long cable going to a point half way along the rear brake rod. This actually forces the rear brake foot lever up so you have to be careful to keep your foot off it while you hand brake. Is this a genuine part? (Offered by Husqvarna) It all looks genuine as far as I can tell but have never seen any pictures of bikes with this modification.
Hi HuskyNovice
Can you send close up pics of your device in order to see better ?
Thanks
Michel
 
Back
Top