• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Lengthen Shift Lever for big feet

L

LarsJansen

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi there,

Just purchased a new 08 TXC250 and have done about ten hours on it. It's awesome.

I have a question regarding lengthening the shift lever as my big boot is getting tangled up:)

Know of any after market levers? I looked at the hammerhead ones but i don't believe they do a husky model.

Lars
 
I haven't heard of a longer ones.
I think most just raise it up a notch so your boot will fit better under neath.:cheers:
 
One of our great Husky mentors, George would tell you to lower your foot pegs first to see if that can help. You cut the peg bottom off, then put the pegs to the bottom of the assembly and the cutoff portion to the top. Have to switch the springs. I did it will a dremel cut-off wheel. Gives you a little more clearance (back and down about 1/2" in both directions) and is what George thinks works for guys with big feet. 1 714 540 2920 if you want George to more clearly explain it. Just take a look at it and you'll probably be able to figure it out. Took about an hour after I knew what I wanted to do. Take the cotter out and the pin and re-position it to see if you think it will work.

I don't have big feet but did it to feel more comfortable standing up. It's also a shorter and less stressful effort to stand when your legs are more nearly straight.
 
I do wish the shifter was longer too. I raised mine, but my boot still hits it easily unless I have the balls of my foot directly over the pegs like Rich Lafferty teaches. I can't raise it as high as I'd like because it rubs the cs when I shift. I don't think I'd want to lower mine or set them back either. I like the position they are in when I'm standing though I can see how that would help and also ease the transition from sitting to standing but I don't want to be back a 1/2 or down a 1/2 because I feel like I'd be in a less forward position and at more risk for hitting logs, stumps, etc with my foot. Sorry for the run-on sentences...rushing out the door.
 
I did the footpeg mod on Yamaha WR 426 years ago. Works well if you are tall.

Being an engineer, I also calculated the stress in the pin and it goes way up unless you weld the footpeg back together. I would not recommend this modification unless you have access to a welder.
 
Hey thanks heaps for all the tips guys!

The foot peg trick sounds good to me as i was thinking about lowering it somehow anyway. I'll go have a play with it right now:)

"20 minutes later"

Back again and I see now what the mod entails. Looks like a brilliant idea to me and I agree with woodzi that it should be welded back for strength. I'm off to the engineering shop.

BTW, I got the shop to cut and lengthen the lever itself about 15mm but it broke after 1/2 a lap when i went to change down a gear as i hit the landing off a long step-up jump at the local MX track.
 
Job done

Thanks for the tip glangston(and george of course!):notworthy:

A "before" and "after" for the next guy that wants to do this modification.

Before:
brokenlever-2-001.jpg


And after:
brokenlever-2-004.jpg


The springs simply swap sides.
 
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