Hey guys, I have a 2013 txc310r with about 80 hours on it with a recent rebuild. I don't know where but over about 5 hours of riding I loose about 10-15 ounces of coolant. I don't see anywhere on the bike that shows that it leaked out. and I don't know how to check if it is burning it. any help gents? also, i don't know if it's related but the radiator fan NEVER has come on.
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
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Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Loosing coolant issue (txc310r)
- Thread starter KazumaRyu
- Start date
Shovelhead85
Husqvarna
AA Class
hi KR-
Suspect your radiator cap first. And if you do have an internal engine problem look for a couple of hints (white, frothy, milky, oil; oil level rise; sometimes hot exhaust can feel "wet" or humid; weep hole stains; areas clean of carbon on the piston).
Back to the cap: bad caps don't look any different- but take a look anyway (and look at the neck rim in the radiator where the cap seal sits- clean both). Try another cap, maybe a friend with a KTM?
I've never heard of this before, and it is slightly dangerous- but maybe lightly plug the bottom end of your radiator overflow line with a small wad of paper towel or toilet paper (when it's cold! you don't wanna suck it into the hose or radiator cap if you put it in when hot... & then it cools down). If there is a low pressure leak, the paper may be damp and/or be holding back coolant; and if there is high pressure vapor being vented (which MAY be normal and then your questions is: why is it getting that hot) ...the paper will be blown out. Another thing: check fast immediately after stopping on a hot bike for the above "sucking-in" reasons.
If this works definitely let me know. ...and if it doesn't- your money back, no questions <grin>.
10-15oz of coolant is pretty significant; the system total is around 32oz on my te310r, IIRC.
The fan is a separate (and possibly non-) issue.
Clean looking bike. good luck.
Matthew525
Husqvarna
AA Class
A buddy is going through the same thing on his '14 TXC 310R wiht approx 80 hours as well. WE have not resolved it yet, but Halls mentioned that water pump seals are known culprits of similar issues on other bikes. He ordered the seals, gaskets and bearings to rebuild. the parts havent arrived yet, but hopefully they will resolve the issue.
On his we put dye in the coolant and found the oil now glows. This means the coolant is leaking into the oil. We hope its the engine side water pump seal. Other culprits may be head gasket, base gasket, cracked cylinder, cracked head, ect. WE plan to replace teh waterpump seals and bearings and see where we are after that. Start easy/cheap and work up.
Like you mention, no external leaks can be found.
On his we put dye in the coolant and found the oil now glows. This means the coolant is leaking into the oil. We hope its the engine side water pump seal. Other culprits may be head gasket, base gasket, cracked cylinder, cracked head, ect. WE plan to replace teh waterpump seals and bearings and see where we are after that. Start easy/cheap and work up.
Like you mention, no external leaks can be found.
PawPaw
Husqvarna
AA Class
If that much coolent is being lost and it is not showing up in the oil via a bad water pump gasket, then you either have a bad or weak cap or a leaking gasket. The gasket leakage would most likely make the bike run odd. If the oil becomes milky or the level is going up then most likely the water pump seal.
Paw Paw
Paw Paw
Johnrg
Husqvarna
Pro Class
On my '13 I had been filling as per the manual, a little more than just over the fins. When I ran water/coolant I topped off on occasion and figured was normal. Switched to XF+ and filled as I thought was right but noted some loss after a Hare Scramble. Refilled a bit and checked when I came home from a trip recently and was just covering fins.
Yesterday installed some silicone hoses and this morning did a test ride on the street to make sure all was not leaking anywhere. Noticed a small puddle where I stopped and some fluid in my freshly cleaned skid plate. No fluid anywhere on the cases adjacent to hose fittings. Was coolant so pulled out the vent hose from the downtube and it was wet so noted a couple of things. With the cap off and thermostat removed idling gives a little flow and as revs increase more flow and probably a little expansion so any splashing or increase in fluid level probably from increased flow from the pump will cause it to evacuate it out the vent. I don't have any hoses leaking/all are dry, and no contamination in my oil. Just changed mine and ran dark brown as usual so no cross contamination.
I am at the conclusion where just atop the fins is where the level wants to be (as others have noted in the past). More just gets purged, at least in the case of a good working engine.
Yesterday installed some silicone hoses and this morning did a test ride on the street to make sure all was not leaking anywhere. Noticed a small puddle where I stopped and some fluid in my freshly cleaned skid plate. No fluid anywhere on the cases adjacent to hose fittings. Was coolant so pulled out the vent hose from the downtube and it was wet so noted a couple of things. With the cap off and thermostat removed idling gives a little flow and as revs increase more flow and probably a little expansion so any splashing or increase in fluid level probably from increased flow from the pump will cause it to evacuate it out the vent. I don't have any hoses leaking/all are dry, and no contamination in my oil. Just changed mine and ran dark brown as usual so no cross contamination.
I am at the conclusion where just atop the fins is where the level wants to be (as others have noted in the past). More just gets purged, at least in the case of a good working engine.
Shovelhead85
Husqvarna
AA Class
John (& KR) sounds like your cap is bad or is not sealing. And I want to mention that another source of premature bypass of pressurized coolant, besides those in post #2, is the vacuum relief valve (usually a small valve in the middle of the bottom of the cap). This valve lets air back IN (or coolant- if you have a surge or overflow or recovery tank) once your cooling system cools down; otherwise your radiator would collapse. If there is crud in this valve, it may seal bad. Gently pry it up and look at it; flush it with fresh water. Clean the big rubber seal and the surface of the radiator where it seats.
I had problems with my stock cap (some of the problem may have been me). I got a Mylers radiator cap from BMP (~$20 IIRC) and have not lost a drop of coolant since, and have done close to a thousand miles.
I'm very, very happy with this cap; though I will will admit I don't like having my cooling system pressurized to 1.8bar (uh, 14.5lbs plus, uh, 11.60lbs... is 26.1psi- sounds right) compared to the stock 1.4bar (a better pressure IMO, if the cap actually worked). It has the "ears" on it that make it easier to put on & take off; also it lets you see that the cap is on right
old stock style cap:
Newer Myler's cap:
Quick story/observation: today I was riding with my son (TE511) and a buddy (YZF400). It was 85°, no wind, 5000' on a steep 1st-gear only winding single track- uphill. My son's bike had the cooling fan come on not too long after the start uphill; my buddy's yz was blowing steam the whole time (we put in about 16oz of water after we got to the top). I had removed my fan a few months ago (it broke- but it turns out I don't need it) but when we got to the top I checked for venting- none. After my bike cooled I opened the cap... the fluid was at the same height I had put in when I first got the cap a couple of months ago (never had to add coolant ever- unlike the stock cap where I was putting in about 3oz every 4th ride). Granted, my bike was hot; also I'm didn't have a hard time on the trail- which is a factor.
I agree that the bike seems happy with the coolant level over the core, about 10mm below the radiator rim- when the bike is level.
The overflow tube is outside the pressurized coolant; with the cap on and functioning, no amount of flow or turbulence should make a difference- coolant should only get there by venting during over-pressurization. I think your cap is screwed.
Johnrg
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Checked mine and I have come to the conclusion for me is rider error. Because of higher viscosity coolant, that left side tank will fill when on the sidestand... Takes a few moments when checking fluid for it to level between the tanks. I find if I level the bike and wait 30 seconds, level goes from just at the top of the cells to the proper fluid height. So, appears I have a non problem. Cap and seals appear OK.