Biggziff
Husqvarna
A Class
I love to bolt stuff on my bikes and if that stuff actually helps me ride better it's a bonus. The MME "Clever Lever" clutch lever is one of those things that once bolted on will impress you with its ability to help you in the woods. This lever claims to reduce felt effort on clutch pull by 50%. The lever came about as an effort to help a fellow rider who was having difficulty pulling the clutch on his bike. I love it when the community works to help one of its own. I talked to Steve Pohl quite a bit and he's clearly done his home work here as the lever makes the clutch a 1 or 2 finger deal. The second advantage is that the lever is shorter than stock so you can cover the lever with 2 fingers and still have 2 fingers on the bars and not worry about hitting the fingers hanging onto the grips when pulling the clutch lever. Fantastic for tight stuff where you're working the clutch a lot. The shape of the lever is more flat than a stock lever and slightly wider which allows you to fit your finger to the lever more comfortably than a stock lever (at least for me) I did read a few reports of people adjusting the width of the lever for their personal preference. Easy to do with a grinder or flap wheel.
I've been off a dirt bike for 2 years and recently have ridden a lot of tight stuff in the woods. i noticed my left hand getting sore and cramping a bit so I ordered one of Steve Pohl's Clever Levers. It came to me well packaged in just a few days. Steve packages the lever in a Zip Lock bag which you can use to store the old lever parts for future use. Great idea!
Installing a clutch lever isn't rocket science, but I thought some might want to see the basics of installing one and my thoughts on the lever's performance.
You start the install by pulling the rubber debris cover back away from the clutch lever mounting area and locating the 5mm allen head bolt which has an 8mm nut on it. It helps to pull the decomp lever fully back in order to gain access to the bolt head. Remove this bolt and nut and slide the lever back out away from the master cylinder, but be careful to not lose the bushing in the pivot hole of the lever as you need to transfer that to the new lever.
Insert the pivot bushing into the new lever and simply install it where the old lever was using the old hardware.
Now you need to adjust the free play as well as where you want the lever to sit when released. On the lever there are 2 allen head screws. One is a grub or set screw that adjusts the length of the push rod that drives the piston in the master cylinder (clutch engage/disengage) and the other is a button head allen that will set how far from the bars the lever will be when released. In the photo below you can see the grub screw that adjusts the push rod length.
In this photo you can see the button head screw that adjusts the position of the lever when released. There is a spring in the old lever in this spot that you do not use with the new lever.
Simply follow the instructions provided to set the engagement/disengagement and then set the position of the lever when released being sure to use locktite on both screws.
One of the great advantages to this lever is that it allows an 1 or 2 finger clutch actuation. You can adjust the clutch perch to slide the lever further or closer to the grips to help with this. I found that the standard location worked perfectly for me.
So, how does it work? Fantastic....I was concerned that it didn't feel much lighter sitting in my garage and called Steve to discuss it. He patiently explained how it all works and reminded me that he offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee if I decided I didn't like it after I rode with it. He encouraged me to ride it a few times and then see what I thought. Well...on my first ride I found I was using 1 finger on the TE510's clutch and using the clutch a lot more as it was soooooo easy to pull and hold it! After an hour of running around in the woods I had much less arm pump than before and was riding a bit faster especially on the tight stuff.
I won't be returning this lever to Steve. I find it does exactly what he says it will and it looks cool as well. I had intended to save up for a Rekluse clutch for this bike, but I no longer feel I need that with this lever. It's *that* good. I paid full price for this lever just so you know my review isn't influenced by $$
So, if you're looking to reduce clutch pull or just want to bolt another farkle on your bike, give Steve a call and order up one of his Clever Levers. I think you'll really like it.
I've been off a dirt bike for 2 years and recently have ridden a lot of tight stuff in the woods. i noticed my left hand getting sore and cramping a bit so I ordered one of Steve Pohl's Clever Levers. It came to me well packaged in just a few days. Steve packages the lever in a Zip Lock bag which you can use to store the old lever parts for future use. Great idea!
Installing a clutch lever isn't rocket science, but I thought some might want to see the basics of installing one and my thoughts on the lever's performance.
You start the install by pulling the rubber debris cover back away from the clutch lever mounting area and locating the 5mm allen head bolt which has an 8mm nut on it. It helps to pull the decomp lever fully back in order to gain access to the bolt head. Remove this bolt and nut and slide the lever back out away from the master cylinder, but be careful to not lose the bushing in the pivot hole of the lever as you need to transfer that to the new lever.
Insert the pivot bushing into the new lever and simply install it where the old lever was using the old hardware.
Now you need to adjust the free play as well as where you want the lever to sit when released. On the lever there are 2 allen head screws. One is a grub or set screw that adjusts the length of the push rod that drives the piston in the master cylinder (clutch engage/disengage) and the other is a button head allen that will set how far from the bars the lever will be when released. In the photo below you can see the grub screw that adjusts the push rod length.
In this photo you can see the button head screw that adjusts the position of the lever when released. There is a spring in the old lever in this spot that you do not use with the new lever.
Simply follow the instructions provided to set the engagement/disengagement and then set the position of the lever when released being sure to use locktite on both screws.
One of the great advantages to this lever is that it allows an 1 or 2 finger clutch actuation. You can adjust the clutch perch to slide the lever further or closer to the grips to help with this. I found that the standard location worked perfectly for me.
So, how does it work? Fantastic....I was concerned that it didn't feel much lighter sitting in my garage and called Steve to discuss it. He patiently explained how it all works and reminded me that he offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee if I decided I didn't like it after I rode with it. He encouraged me to ride it a few times and then see what I thought. Well...on my first ride I found I was using 1 finger on the TE510's clutch and using the clutch a lot more as it was soooooo easy to pull and hold it! After an hour of running around in the woods I had much less arm pump than before and was riding a bit faster especially on the tight stuff.
I won't be returning this lever to Steve. I find it does exactly what he says it will and it looks cool as well. I had intended to save up for a Rekluse clutch for this bike, but I no longer feel I need that with this lever. It's *that* good. I paid full price for this lever just so you know my review isn't influenced by $$
So, if you're looking to reduce clutch pull or just want to bolt another farkle on your bike, give Steve a call and order up one of his Clever Levers. I think you'll really like it.