• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My new (street legal!) 430 Cr bike

L

Larsa

Husqvarna
A Class
Chaps,

I am new to this forum, but I understand this is one of the places to be when discussing vintage husqvarna bikes! I recently added a 1981 430 CR to my 'collection' (well..not collection really, I only have a few bikes, but common to all is 2 stroke engines and old age and fully restored)

I just the other week bough a 430 1981 CR (see pic below) that someone somehow made street legal (!) in the early eighties, with no restrictions. This is very uncommon in sweden on motocross bikes, in fact I have never heard of this before on a stroker, so it is quite nice. I will enjoy beating 4-strokes this summer. The bike has a electric system with horns, turn signals, brake lights etc.

Anyway, I am currently trying to sort some things out on the history of the bike. This is my first vintage husqvarna so I need to get som things right when I restore it.

1. ) The frame serial is CN 0XXXX and the engine number is 2087 (instead of 2086 which I read was the CR version), which makes me belevive that the engine has been swapped from a CR to a WR at some point in time. Is the only difference between these engine no.s the gearing (in the gearbox), or is there any other difference that anyone knows of?

2.) I am going to send in the frame etc for blasting and paint in a few days and I am right now very confused as to which paint to choose. The bike is 'all white' right now, as I have seen 1983 CR's to be. But I understand that the 1981 CR had a silver frame. Could my bike bee a bastard with mixed parts from different years? Anyone know a place where paint codes can be found for the silver frame and the 'copper' wheels and fork?

3.) My shocks are blue and seems to be made in spain (no ohlins shocks). Was this mounted on 1981 models at all (see pic).

4.) My cylinder and piston seemed to be original bore from what I could understand. The piston had 86P20+ 'Mahle' marking on it. On these old cyliders with sleeves, would you typically bore them or wait until more wear show up. I mean maybe there is a point in not boring my cylinder, and keep some material for 'future use' (it is not so very worn in my opinion, see pic).

Would really appreciate some comments on the above questions. I am looking forward to fixing this beast up. My most recent restoration job was a yamaha rd350 into new condition, it will not have a chance I guess on the first three gears vs the husky. nice!

Thanks !Cylinder_small.jpgIMG_0104_small.jpgPiston_small.jpg
Lars
 
CN frames used 1981-1982 were silver if you want to be authentic. In Vintage Tech there is a powdercoat code for silver and in this section a page or two back is a PPG code for exact factory silver. Here is a DuPont code:
Dupont Chroma Base B/C
Chrysler Import Code: H84
color: Grace Silver

PPG 34522

Use the Chrysler H84 code if you want paint from anyone else.
Congratulations on finding a street legal vintage Husky. I hope to make one of mine street legal in CT(a daunting challege)
 
Thanks guys for the comments!
I am having a really hard time to decide whether to go for the -83 white look or the original -81. Since my shocks are not original and also the fact that the bike does have other things like turn-signals etc on it to make it street legal I might not go for my usual 100% original restoration. Probably leaning towards making it look nice w/o making it original.

Yes, I am on the swedish forum as well, but unfortunately it looks like there is not as much acitivy on that as the english/US forums. Smaller country I guess..same with most of the vintage forums I think. We have really nice well-kept forums for many brands, but less people writing in them :)

Thanks
Lars
 
I have a 1987 WR430 that is tagged and insured in Ga. since 1987 when things were bit more lax. It even has a title which are are no longer issued for bikes like this. It only has the headlight and tail light with no brake light. Never been bothered driving around on it. Folks just freak out if I ride it in town for fun. Still on original bore and second ring on OEM piston after lots of enduroes. Enjoy the restore.

Wonder if you have the stock light coil in the bike? Is there a stand alone battery in your set up or tied to power output? Curious about the set up. If I was forced to upgrade mine I would just set up a stand alone system for signals and horn and brake light.
 
HuskyGreg said:
I have a 1987 WR430 that is tagged and insured in Ga. since 1987 when things were bit more lax. It even has a title which are are no longer issued for bikes like this. It only has the headlight and tail light with no brake light. Never been bothered driving around on it. Folks just freak out if I ride it in town for fun. Still on original bore and second ring on OEM piston after lots of enduroes. Enjoy the restore.

Wonder if you have the stock light coil in the bike? Is there a stand alone battery in your set up or tied to power output? Curious about the set up. If I was forced to upgrade mine I would just set up a stand alone system for signals and horn and brake light.
Click to expand...
You can also setup the lighting wire to charge the battery using maybe the stock regulator from the WR wiring system if it regulate to the right voltage(appr 13.8 volts)
 
Great!
The electric system on the bike is quite interesting...all of the components (rectifiers, horn, mechanical turn relay etc ) is mounted in the frame under the tank (in quite a mess), and I first thought the system was driven by a stand-alone battery, but when I dug into it a little more I now beleive there is a charging circuit. The battery was not mounted and there are a few loose cables so I am not 100% sure on this yet.

Right now I am leaning towards going original, with the original paint (well, not sure which paint the tank had, but I think the red one is really nice) with polished sides on the tank and a silver frame.

I am going to send the frame parts into blasting this week I hope and am currently in dissasembly mode, Man(!) are those shocks hard to get off. On one side I hade to fire the old burner up to heat the parts quite signifficantly, and on the other side I havent been able to get it off yet. The upper mount is somewhat hard to get to with a three-arm puller, so I am leaning towards the sledge-hammer instead:)

Thanks
Lars
 
Larsa ,have you ignition system SEM ?
HUSQVARNA WR euope ?
but is yes ? ! you are no problèm !
( 70 watts X 2 = two cables yellow ! )
cable 1 = ligts
cable 2= others !
 
No one that would like to comment on the condition of my bore and piston? I am leaning towards only honing right now on the cylinder and complete only with a new piston. What do you guys use as measure for determining when to bore and when not to for these strokers?

Thanks
Lars
 
Dial bore gages are best but I have used telescoping gages with micrometers. You need to check in all directions around the intake port as I have had my 84 250WR and 86 400WR cylinders bored and each took the next size over what I had thought. There were narrow bands bridging the intake and possibly exhaust ports that have higher wear because of less support like in very bottom and top of bores(full circumference).

If you find out of roundness and/or wear over max mid bore in the mentioned port zones you will need to over to next size or maybe 2 sizes like I did because mine did not cleanup in the middle
 
Great information, Thanks! I shall try to measure this the best Ican. If I am not able to get signifficantly good reading with the gauges I have I shall let a shop measure it to make sure.
 
Visiteur1948,
Your engine looks like a 1982 430XC. The splines on the kickstart shaft are heavier duty than the earlier models. Check out the '82 parts list on Cafe Husky page 54 of 82.
 
yes ! Puckerbusb !but kick-starter system and crankases or my
430 1981 is very bad ! change the lever kick system after years
at restore bike HUSQVARNA CR 1981 ! the system 1982 it's easy
and after for kick motor for me !;)excuse my english bad !

mot 430 fev 2011.JPG

mot 430 le 3 avril 2011.JPG
 
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