• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Need advise on cyl bolts (and a pat on the back)

L

Larsa

Husqvarna
A Class
Guys,

Realized today that the fwd m8 bolt on my 430 cylinder has bad threads. All studs are new and in great shape so I torqued these to 40Nm and also the aft m8 bolt is fine, tourqed this to 25Nm. So all good minus fwd m8.

This hasn't been my week at all, on monday I broke the casting on the vm38 when I was going to change the float needle, even though I took so much care as I know how vulnerable the casting is...got a brand new one on wednesday and was going to start the beauty up today first time following restoration, just after torquing all bolts.........this truly sucks as tomorrow was last day to go out on the track before misses and kids needs attention on vacation for two weeks

So sorry for beeing a crybaby but I could really need some advice on this. Anyone knows if this will actually have an impact on the head to cyl sealing? I grinded the head to the cylinder using fine paste before installnig it. I am sure som here must have had tis experience given the thread is missing inserts and is alu alloy.

I made a stud in the hole after realizing this issue, but unfortunately I was unable to get it to work, the threads were too bad. And I really cannot see any good repair possibilities without removing the sleeve from the casting (really really would't like to machine it out, 1st oversize just completed..)

Appreciates any thoughts
Lars
 
Very easy to heli-coil, but I would advise pulling the cylinder off to do it.
I couldn't get a good seal on my 390 without the 8m bolts torqed properly.
Ron
 
Ron,

Thanks! I didn't think there was enough space between the sleeve flange and the hole for drilling and inserting a heicoil, but I if this is doable it is great news. If will try to source a M8 helicoil or Timesert as it seems the bolt really is needed for adequate seal pressure, I was hoping it wasn't :)

Lars
 
I guess the engineers new what they were doing.
Where are you located. I have heli-coil kit for them.
 
On these bolts - please use washer - on many 430 cylinders the depth of these threads can very. By always using the washer you should be ok.
 
I have to Heli-Coil the cylinder bolts into the crankcase on the 86 400WR engine I started to rebuild a few years ago. The jack*** PO removed the studs from the crankcases without heating them first :(
 
Ron,
thank you for your kindness! I have a set of helcoils I will try to use when I get back home.
- Gary, great info, i actually did use washers but I think I was overwelmed with the great looks on my newly bored cylinder to overlook the threads on the fwd M8, my bad all the way.

I am currently on vacation where I was raised, in the northern part of sweden, where offroad racing is actually OFFROAD racing. Let me tell you guys that when you realize that you are in a swamp and the engine died and see that the kickstart pedal is missing this is when you use your {€$£@@£$ words and walk 15k back to get a replacement pedal, this is when you know you´re home...:) Actually happened, but is probably 20 years ago now I realiize.

I would like to whish you all a great weekend, i just ordered 4 tons of gravel so I will use my shovel tomorrow!

Lars
 
GaryM said:
On these bolts - please use washer - on many 430 cylinders the depth of these threads can very. By always using the washer you should be ok.
Click to expand...
Yes! As GaryM says! I suggest to always run the front and back bolts down till they bottom - with the head off - and make sure they're going in far enough to actually clamp the head. On some cylinders, they don't! I've had to clean out threads or cut about 1/8" off the bolts to get them to clamp properly.
 
ol mate did 3 pistons before we twigged the long bolt syndrome. was a real f#@*up by the factory as they were getting plenty of jap converts but lost a lot in 82 83 with seizing bikes from a simple machining error.
 
Sorry for late reply, but I put inserts in the M8:s and it worked out great. Only issue was I had to machine a small blend in the sleeve flange to fit with the thread tap, it would have interfered otherwise.

I took your suggestions on the 'long bolt syndrome' and washers and I am quite sure that I had excactly this problem without knowing about it from measuring the depths of the holes. Thanks guys for this tip!
 
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