• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Need help installing tps te449

C

coleman1495

Husqvarna
A Class
Okay so I was trying to install my new PVC and removed the tps in order to access the fuel injector plug easier. I tried installing it back on but I get a fail message on the display.anyways the tps fits onto a spline coming out of the throttle body.is there a certain way the spline is suppose to fit into the tps? The bike starts and runs the same regardless if the spline is in place. Also, when I twist the throttle the spline does not move. How do I get this thing back on?
 
Okay so I think I managed to get the TPS installed correctly. I used a flat head screw driver to turn the notch on the inside of the sensor and kept trying to put the sensor back onto the spline.

Anyways after screwing around for a long while I some how got it to work. The bike started and ran normally without the FAIL message on the display. Exactly what I did I have no clue.

So yeah I have concluded:

1. Don't take the TPS off!
2. If you do try using a flat head screw driver, a 6 pack, and a lot of patience.
 
If it was the top (secondary) TPS that you removed that would explain why the shaft was not turning as it is operated by a motor, not your cable.
If it was the lower TPS (primary) the shaft should turn with the hand throttle.

You will likely have to reset the base TPS voltage setting/s as it is unlikely you get it back exactly where it was.
Both these sensors have a slot for the mounting screw & moving raises or lowers the voltage that the ECU reads.
A lower voltage is leaner & higher is richer. It does not takemuch movement to make big changes in the voltage.

If you have connected the PCV to the correct sensor, you will be able to see the primary TPS volts on the PCV screen (factory base at idle is 0.7v)

The secondary TPS is a much higher voltage(EDIT 1.1v) & also more complicated to set.
(I have the details on another computer & could let you know if needed)

Hope that helps.
 
Okay so the shaft did not turn when I turned the cable. Therefore I am assuming it is the secondary TPS.

The PCV however did connect to this same sensor. You are stating that the PCV goes to the primary sensor. I definately connected the PCV to the same part that I removed. Is it possible that I could have connected the PCV to the wrong location?
 
Okay so upon further inspection I realized that I plugged the PCV into the lower TPS. The top TPS was the one that I removed. Actually I did not even just remove the secondary TPS. I took off the part that it is mounted to. It is the large part that says Keihin on it and requires taking 2 8mm hex head bolts out. The PCV did not seem to make any difference in power. Is it possible that me messing up the secondary TPS had something to do with this?
 
That large part is the secondary butterfly motor.
Others on here have had failures after removing this part.
Hopefully yours is ok, as long as it wasn't powered up while it was removed it may be ok if the splines lined up correctly.

If you pull the plastic cover off the other side of the throttle body (covering the cables) and watch the small cam thatis in the upper section of the covered area, this should move back & forth while revving the engine.
If it does not move you might have had a failure.
The part is not avail as a separate part from the throttle body.....

(Cam is just behind the screw driver tip in this pic)

img_20140325_140402_855-jpg.39049


Hope it is all sweet.
 
I connected my computer up to the PCV and checked the primary TPS voltage. It gave me a voltage of ~0.78 while idling.

Okay so you say I removed the secondary butterfly motor. What would happen if I simply removed the secondary butterfly?
 
Don't worry, I boned it the same way when I installed my JD because I was going for the wrong plug. I actually had to twist the throttle to line everything back up. The battery was disco'd when I did it, so upon proper connection of the spoofer plug from the JD and getting the battery re connected, all was good. The voltage for the TPS as read by the PCV may or may not be accurate, however loading a map into the PCV or messing with the settings should give you an idea whether or not you've got it connected properly. You could always connect the test lead mentioned in DangerMouse's thread could always be used.

But at the end of the day, if it works, doesn't cause a fail, and is tunable, then go forth and BRRRAAAAPPPP!
 
I actually never even worried much as it either lines up or doesn't on my 2011. With at least 200 miles since installing, I honestly didn't even give it a second thought until I read your thread. Just been enjoying the tune on the fly ability and experimenting with settings. Maybe sometime soon I'll try the butterfly thing and may even get around to measuring the TPS voltage.
 
coleman1495 said:
Okay so I checked the cam out and it does in fact move when I rev up the motor. I am assuming this does not mean the splines lined up 100% correctly though.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have not pulled my motor off mine to inspect, so not sure whether mine is spline or slot type (if theres two sorts?)

Either way with mine, as Huskynoobee mentioned, I have the butterfly plate out of my second throttle anyway.
On my bike, that shaft can turn wherever the hell it wants & it does not affect the bike engine one bit! :cheers:
Total control of throttle is from the cable operated throttle only with no interference from the electronic one.:thumbsup:
 
coleman1495 said:
I connected my computer up to the PCV and checked the primary TPS voltage. It gave me a voltage of ~0.78 while idling.

Okay so you say I removed the secondary butterfly motor. What would happen if I simply removed the secondary butterfly?
Click to expand...

For my own bike, 0.8v was perfect. I'd say your 0.78 is a good figure to go with. It is on the richer end of the scale of adjustment.

You can't remove the whole unit as it will put up 'Fail', the electronic circuit is not complete.
You can however leave the motor, TPS & shaft there & just remove the butterfly plate & screws from inside the throttle body.

You may have more fuelling adjustments to do after, but the initial throttle response is very much improved at all rpm.
It does not make more power, just lets you decide how you get to it.
The system is designed to open the second throttle more slowly than the cable throttle.
This gives what BMW/Husky called 'smooth power'.
If you have ridden any other 450 4 stroke, this feels weak without that first up hit when you open up the throttle.

Lots of bikes running very well without them, my own without a PCV.
 
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