• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New 13 TXC310R what do I need to know

J

jesse310

Husqvarna
C Class
Hi Guys,
I just got a new to me 2013 TXC310R that has about 10 hours on it. It starts right up and feels great. I know there were a few issues with the bikes my question is for those of you that are on these do you have any tips for keeping the bike running smooth. Its winter here so I am dying waiting to get a good ride in on it.
Thanks
 
1st make sure it has the upgraded starter gears? There was a recall on them and some were done before you purchased.

Get rid of stock battery and get a lithium battery with strong CCA amps. Key to starter gears / starter issues is avoided by a strong battery.

Set your forks and rear shock spring to your weight. Front forks align with top line on fork tube.

Make sure wire behind pipe is zip tied to hydraulic clutch line good so doesn't melt.

Put pair of pillow top grips on to kill vibration in hands.

Turn idle up to bout 2200 rpm so you need hour meter/tach.

Your choice but I run Vp fuel, VPR. Have better throttle response, overall performance and less popping when letting off gas.

I run a Rekluse Auto clutch and it was best thing ever bought.

Run through all your wire connections and put some dielectric grease on connectors.

I use 0-40 wt Mobil one Euro car motor oil.

Get stainless steel filter.

I change my oil as soon as it looks dirty in site glass.

Be careful when changing oil not to strip drain plug barb, filter holder. Use good box end wrench to loosen.

You can get the TC 250 plug and Zipty oil drain back kit to eliminate the barb below.

Suspension, has best out there! KYB's. Just about any shop can revalve them way you want.

Enjoy! Bike is awesome and mine has been dependable from day one. I was told from get go about battery needing good CCA amps.

Earth X is good one and others.

Bike is light, lil more goat grunt than 250 and blast just to grab throttle to lift front end up any time.

Check your spokes for while and rear sprocket bolts.

Heat shield bolts like to come loose and I have lost few. I solved it by putting those star type jagged washers under bolts.

Always use anti seize grease in shroud to gas tank inserts to keep from spinning brass gas tank inserts.

Make sure when disconnecting fuel tank to throttle body, you are careful and you might as well get the Zipty aluminum elbow, because everyone breaks the stock plastic one.

Does yours have the tank spacer shims to keep tank up off radiator hose?

Line under side of tank and behind radiators with heat shield mat, keeps fuel cool and tank from warping!

Check your valves at 50 hours!

Get you good set of radiator braces or maybe you do? Hard to tell in pic?

Enjoy bike!
 
Congrats on the purchase! I've got a 2010 TXC250 that has quite a bit in common with your model. Most of my riding was done in Washington State (rocks, roots and the occasional desert on the East side) so some of these mods may/may not apply to your type of riding.


1) Disc guards. One hit on that front disc pretty much ruins a ride.
IMG_0747.JPG
IMG_0750.JPG

2) Pipe guards (header and mid-pipe). That front pipe will end up on you or your buddy's leg eventually. First thing to go are the riding pants, second is skin.
IMG_0749.JPG

3) Skid plate. One that can absorb an impact as well as slide over obstacles. The oil line banjo fitting on the front right side of the engine is particularly vulnerable to a snag as well.

4) Chain tightness. From your picture it almost appears as if yours is on the tight side. Might just be from the rear suspension being compressed. If they are too tight, at the very least, the countershaft seal will start leaking....worst case the countershaft snaps off landing from a jump when the chain is at its tightest. When adjusted by the book, they appear a little loose (see my pic)
IMG_0748.JPG

Enjoy!
 
Check the bike over carefully for routing setup issues. As mentioned above the stator wires should be checked and make sure they are clear of the header. Also see my link describing tank clearance issues and shims to fix. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/radiator-hose-a-tight-fit.31649/#post-293396

Stock catch tank is in the top tube of the frame and a hose re-routes blowby to the sump in the rear. Easiest to loosen the hose and slide it off, then remove the drain/filter plug. The 13 has a normal sump drain but you do want to service that rear filter as well. Best advise is to have and use a good quality open/closed end wrench as a few folks have stripped it. Be careful!

Expect you may encounter a slight oil leak emanating from the stator grommet where the wires come out. Some sealant around the grommet solves that.

Get a filter sock from these guys... http://www.profill-australia.com/e-store/STORE.html. Keeps and grit from causing issues. Fit's great and keeps fuel from splashing on fillups.

Do not labor the electric starter. If the bike is impossible to kick the decompresor may not be being activated requiring tightening of the specific valve shim (stock settings may not be adequate and may require keeping the shim at the tight end of spec. A better battery is a good plan and negates much of the labored starter issues. You want to check whether your starter gears had been replaced under warranty or if they were OK from the factory. Between a loose decompressor and faulty gears, binding and starting issues were not uncommon. With both of those issues addressed and a more powerful battery, the bikes are reliable and sound. If you do labor the starter being unaware of the above issues you can burn up the starter. Just a heads up. Take care of these and the bike should take care of you.

To me that's the important stuff. ZipTy has some accessories that are handy... Front axle puller, axle nut for 3/8drive. Drain back kit that routes the blowby hose to the oil filler with a banjo bolt so you can simply plug the rear drain. ZipTy sells the EarthX batteries too. Many are using SS filters and Mobil1 0-40 oil. I do and change it at 300 mile intervals.
 
Thanks great info.
I already have an updated battery, rekluse, engine skid and radiator brackets. I will be sure to do a full check over of everything as soon as I get a chance. I can't wait to ride it I am coming of a crf450x and although that thing is really fun to ride this feels so much lighter and I am hoping it will slay single track.
 
Hey dude. Do you know the name and make of your pipe guard please? I can't find one over here in the UK so could do with some help finding one.

Thanks
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ioneater said:
Congrats on the purchase! I've got a 2010 TXC250 that has quite a bit in common with your model. Most of my riding was done in Washington State (rocks, roots and the occasional desert on the East side) so some of these mods may/may not apply to your type of riding.


1) Disc guards. One hit on that front disc pretty much ruins a ride.
View attachment 63411
View attachment 63413

2) Pipe guards (header and mid-pipe). That front pipe will end up on you or your buddy's leg eventually. First thing to go are the riding pants, second is skin.
View attachment 63412

3) Skid plate. One that can absorb an impact as well as slide over obstacles. The oil line banjo fitting on the front right side of the engine is particularly vulnerable to a snag as well.

4) Chain tightness. From your picture it almost appears as if yours is on the tight side. Might just be from the rear suspension being compressed. If they are too tight, at the very least, the countershaft seal will start leaking....worst case the countershaft snaps off landing from a jump when the chain is at its tightest. When adjusted by the book, they appear a little loose (see my pic)
View attachment 63414

Enjoy!
Click to expand...
 
So I just tried to start it after the bike has sat for 3 weeks and when I push the button it just clicks and if I hold the button it wines a little? The battery is at full charge. I am hoping this is a connection not a bad starter but don't know has anybody else had this issue? Thanks
 
Try kicking and don't lay on the starter button. If it clicks, just stab it to get it over TDC. It may be momentarily stuck near TDC but you may be dealing with a decompressor not releasing enough to allow the starter to spin up. If the kicker is feeling locked you may want to adjust the shim tighter that affects the decompressor.
 
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