• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New guy , old question can chain tensioner info !

Webbo610sm

Webbo610sm

Husqvarna
Hi all

I'm new to the husky world and have just picked up a 08 sm610ie bikes in pretty great shape with only 4k on it but I have heard a creaking cracking type noise when the bikes under heavy load , for example a hard acceleration in too high of a gear ,I can only assume it's engine or drive train related my other theory is my floating rear disc causing it ?! It's my first single just come from an 06 gsxr 750 ! Have scared myself googling seeing a lot about the cam chains needing replacing so I thought it best to check the clicks on my cct but for the life of me I can't see how to do it in the manual ... I work on BMW cars for a living and maybe am Over thinking this whole thing but if I were to remove a tensioner from a BMW I would ensure the timing was set and locked using timing tools as the timing turns when the tensioner is removed so does the engine need to be set to any specific position or is it a case off switch the engine off take out the centre bolt remove the spring remove the 8 mms count the notches reset to zero reinstall the tensioner and 8 mms reinstall the spring then the centre bolt ? Also heard people saying they can't get the centre bolt back with the spring etc any tips pics guides links to a guide or just any info on how to do it would be great if there's a guide I can't seem to find it have done numerous searchs so please forgive me if I've missed it ! I'm sure this would have been asked before !

Many thanks

Charlie
 
The guys who can't get the center bolt and spring back in are a little ham fisted...

To make things much easier, just remove the exhaust where the dual headers meet the mid pipe, will save you a huge headache.

But yes, turn the engine to TDCC, remove center bolt, remove outer two bolts, count notches.

Another thing to check, since some report having many clicks without reed damage, is to remove the left engine cover, and inspect the reed valve retainer plate.
 
Thanks very much for your reply so the engine needs to be a tdc that's fine are you just gauging that with a rod In the spark plug hole or do people generally remove the engine cover or cam cover and align any timing marks ? Really appreciate your advice didn't wanna pull the tensioner and mess the timing and potentially need a rebuild through my own error !
 
I have a 2008 610, too and I found out that the engine is at tdc when the two dots on the cranksahaft gear and on the counter-shaft gear are aligned.
In this photo, I was pulling the piston rod towards the top, so the engine was at TDC.
ttfk.jpg
 
Checked mine every oil change, never needed to do the TDC, when you turn off the engine it's going to stop itself under compression anyway, so that's close enough for me. When you re-install the center bolt, take a small screwdriver or something similar. Push the rod in VERY CAREFULLY about 4 clicks. I practiced a few times while it was out, this will make the spring and bolt much, much easier to install. For example, mine is out 7 clicks, when I re-install it, I push the rod in 5 clicks, the spring and bolt go in with little effort, then listen for the remaining clicks when you tighten the bolt, then you know you're good. Be careful then hit the trail!!

Happy Trails.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top