• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New Husky owner and I have some noob questions

B

brandontx

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just got an 08 510 smr. Only has 75 miles on it. Have a few questions for you seasoned Husky riders. First off, this is my first motard or dirt bike for that matter.

1. I did the fuel pump mod and the orange wire was broken off. I couldn't really see where it broke off from but I noticed some solder on what I'm guessing was a sensor so I soldered it to the soldered area. Is this correct? I also stripped one of the screws a little holding the fuel pump on but used loctite so hopefully it won't leak.

2. There is some bluish green oil coming out of the airbox. Is this just air filter oil or is there a possibility that I am getting coolant in the motor oil and it is coming out of a vent or something? Is it really likely that the coolant would get into the oil in only 75 miles?

3. The air filter oil has stopped coming out of the airbox but noticed a spot of greenish oil at the bottom of the frame. So now I'm getting nervous. Will clarify on this later when I realize where it is coming from. So this isn't actually a question.

4. Could someone post a close up picture of the left side of there engine. The previous dealer did a little work to the bike and I want to see if they routed the wiring properly. Seems a bit messy.

5. What does this wire do? It is touching the engine and getting melted through.
View attachment 6378

6. I was checking the coolant and there is no coolant in the reservoir by the shock but the radiator is full. Should I fill it up or leave it because the radiator is full.

7. I keep reading about one finger braking on these things, but I feel as though you have to squeeze the brake much harder than you do on a sportbike. I had a Duc 1098 caliper put on this because the other was screwed up during shipping. Do you think they messed something up or do you have to squeeze it much harder than a sportbike? Is it because of the longer suspension travel?
 

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brandontx;120273 said:
Just got an 08 510 smr. Only has 75 miles on it. Have a few questions for you seasoned Husky riders. First off, this is my first motard or dirt bike for that matter.
1. I did the fuel pump mod and the orange wire was broken off. I couldn't really see where it broke off from but I noticed some solder on what I'm guessing was a sensor so I soldered it to the soldered area. Is this correct?
Yes bracket that holds the sensor in place has solder on it.
2. There is some bluish green oil coming out of the airbox. Is this just air filter.
Most likely just air filter oil.
5. What does this wire do? It is touching the engine and getting melted through.
Neutral wire
6. I was checking the coolant and there is no coolant in the reservoir by the shock but the radiator is full. Should I fill it up or leave it because the radiator is full.
If you ride hard and you think it might boil over it is a good idea to put some in the reservoir. If it does boil over the hot fluid will melt the plastic bottle.
7. I keep reading about one finger braking on these things, but I feel as though you have to squeeze the brake much harder than you do on a sportbike. I had a Duc 1098 caliper put on this because the other was screwed up during shipping. Do you think they messed something up or do you have to squeeze it much harder than a sportbike? Is it because of the longer suspension travel?
:excuseme: Don't know my TE stops on a dime...:D
Click to expand...

Hope that helps ya a bit.:cheers:
Also you might want to read what type of coolant
 
All good info posted above.

I actully take a hacksaw and cut off half of my clutch and brake lever since I only use 2 fingers for both the rest of the level just gets in the way. I just Prefer to have more fingers grabbing the bars:excuseme:

Not sure about street bikes but all bikes seem to be different. My husky seems to stop on a dime where as my ktm 640 takes a little more pull for the same effect.
 
As far as your braking goes, something ain't right. I rode nothing but sportbikes and full-on dirtbikes for 20+ years before getting my SM610. I never had brakes that worked so good, and that includes the Performance Machine brakes on my Yamaha FZR400/600. Shoot, the brakes are my favorite thing on my SM610 when I'm on pavement :D A good pull on the front brake lever should be enough to almost spit you over the bars if everything is in working order. You might want to consider sourcing another stock caliper. Did you change the master cylinder, too? If not, that could potentially be a problem.

Edit: Did you buy this bike new? Did the shipper/seller do anything to mitigate the damage sustained during shipping?

WoodsChick
 
WoodsChick;120431 said:
As far as your braking goes, something ain't right. I rode nothing but sportbikes and full-on dirtbikes for 20+ years before getting my SM610. I never had brakes that worked so good, and that includes the Performance Machine brakes on my Yamaha FZR400/600. Shoot, the brakes are my favorite thing on my SM610 when I'm on pavement :D A good pull on the front brake lever should be enough to almost spit you over the bars if everything is in working order. You might want to consider sourcing another stock caliper. Did you change the master cylinder, too? If not, that could potentially be a problem.

Edit: Did you buy this bike new? Did the shipper/seller do anything to mitigate the damage sustained during shipping?

WoodsChick
Click to expand...

If you give it a good pull it will stand up, but what is weird (and this may be the long suspension travel) is the initial bite isn't there. On my sportbikes you just barely squeeze and it instantly starts shaving off speed. This one you have to pull a little further but it brakes hard.
 
Brandon, flush it through with some new fluid and give the pads and disc a clean with brake cleaner. If they have got oil on them (soaked in) they are pretty much scrap.
The fluid should be changed regularly and I bet its the original fluid in there still. I have to use the high temp stuff, I cook the DOT4, dont know why, maybe I am hard on the front or drag it a little.

MOTUL RBF 600

EXTREME THERMAL RESISTANCE AND STABILITY: the elevated boiling point of RBF 600 FACTORY LINE (312°c / 593°F) enables effective braking even under the extreme conditions of competition.

VERY EFFICIENT WHEN RAINY: the very high wet boiling point (216°c / 420°F), is superior to conventional brake fluids provides a particularly efficient braking system in rain and put back the apparition of vapor lock.

NORMES : FMVSS 116 DOT 4 / SAE J 1703 / ISO 4925
Brock :thumbsup:
 
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