• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New To Me '82 250wr

J

Joe mulqueen

Husqvarna
Hello - I'm new to this site and recently bought a 1982 250WR project bike....as a follow up to my first old cycle project ('70 Yamaha CT175). Anyway the Huskie had been sitting in a carport for nearly 20 yrs. Engine / gearbox are OK but I need to rebuild the suspension (looking for a rear shocks person) and tidy up the cosmetics. Two big problems - has a previously repaired, but still leaky, clutch side cover to replace, AND, the rear frame hoop (behind the seat holding up the WR fender) is bent upward about 15 degree. How to best straighten it? Is it possible to keep the bike together, and heat and bend it back without making it look bad, or better to strip the frame down and flip it over onto a hard surface? Looks like someone tried messing with it but didn't get very far.
Thanks for any opinions,
Joe M
HSQ.jpg
 
Shocks…..Drew Smith is reported favorably https://www.werproducts.net though suspect surely there’s someone on your side of the country that could do them.

To do the frame, figure best to strip it as its been sitting a while and no doubt the swing arm / head bearings need looking at. In addition it’s a bit easier to address the clutch cover with the motor laid on it’s side on the bench….. Mind the kicker nor the shifter need to be removed to pull the clutch cover.

Best of fortune,
 
Nice find
I think the frame hoop was bent up originally ?
I'nm wromg
 

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the rear frame hoop (behind the seat holding up the WR fender) is bent upward about 15 degree. How to best straighten it?
Click to expand...

In my opinion theres no quick fix. Since theres no stress on that part of the frame I'd use heat to straighten it. The frame is probably only 1.5mm thick (.060") so it shouldn't require an extremely high temperature.
  • Remove the seat and rear fender.
  • Use about 6 inches of 3/4" sch 80-pipe cut length wise (1/3rd of the circumference) to brace the top of the frame over the bend and a one inch long piece of the pipe under the bend.You can double the pipe thickness using 2 pieces one on top of the other if needed.
  • Hold them in place with a heavy duty c-clamp. If you have access to a welder then weld flat stock to the top and bottom pieces of pipe to keep the c-clamp from sliding off.
  • Using an oxy-acetylene torch apply heat to the bottom one inch sch-80 pipe and the exposed frame and tighten the c-clamp slowly once the pipe begins to turn red. Tighten only as much as will be allowed with moderate pressure in order to keep from flattening the pipe and frame.
3/4" Sch 80 is .750" ID with a .154" wall.

If you've never done anything like this before then may the dirt bike repair gods be with you. :D
 
Nice find! In my opinion the 82 25WR was the best woods bike Husky made. Good power and torque. Great handling. Do what Crash said. I have straightened several Husky rear frame loops bent like yours over the last 24 years with heat and just pulling down till straight. Just go slow so you don't kink the tubing.

Marty
 
Hello Fellows - Thanks for the ideas. Sched 80 (steel) - how to slot it...without a mill?
I'm going to post another pic tomorrow to show more detail because it's bent on both sides - best to do both at same time?
Also, there is actually a 3rd bend where the welded joint at back of hoop is bent toward the seat. Wondering if it needs to be cut free to straighten then weld back together.
Lastly, this bike is also from Antalope Valley - Palmdale. Was a distant friend's "loaner" bike so it was tossed around but no other bends or crash damage other than clutch cover. Agree I need to tear it down but would like to get a few miles out of it first!
Regards,
Joe
 
Hello - I'm back to work on the bike after being needed for "spouse projects" the past month. I took off the previously epoxied clutch cover. Inside looks pretty clean so no plans at this point other than the new Al cover and seals. Goal is to ride it around on the trails just a bit, then probably tear down and refinish the frame, suspension, etc. Regarding the bent up rear frame hoop, attached is a top down pic showing the 3rd bend - inward at the weld joint. Disregarding someone else's flat spot, does anyone think this inward bend, and the upward bends on each side of hoop can be heated and straightened, or too much damage? Wondering if cutting the weld free and fixing the hoop in halves, then later rewelding, would be needed. Any more comments are appreciated! Thanks, Joe M20240918_211834.jpg
 
Joe,

Good find, Before i cut off the rear loop, i'd line up a welder, make sure he/she can weld it back properly.
Hard to tell from the pictures, but can you put your hand in between the fender & the loop? If you can
then it make a perfect grab handle, why mess with it.

I always thought the 80's Husky enduro's need a grab handle anyway, as there's NOT much grab hold of .
I've had to hoss the bike around on a tight trail, a few times, after missing a uphill turn or finding i didn't
give it enough gas to climb something.

I know aftermarket companies make nylon loop straps, that bolt on to the back of the frame, but does
what you got, work?


Husky John
 
Hello John
The hoop is supposed to secure the WR style rear fender with two rubber clamps, but now that hoop is bent upward, fender doesn't fit correctly. Understand I could hack the fender a bit to make it fit but I really want to return things to a more normal alignment and fit. The entire hoop tubing actually extends well forward as part of the entire bike frame so rather not cut/remake. That said, I could see cutting the hoop's center weld, if that would make straightening easier......or maybe soften and bend the two side bends first, then later try and straighten the bend at center weld. Anyone think one scheme better than other?
Thanks,
Joe M
 
Why not secure the frame and use a chain fall to pull it backwards with some heat as you go. You can control the movement with a chainfall and not over do it. Looks like you have a couple moves to make it right. Looks like it got rear ended. Dead center hahahah.
 
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