• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New to this forum

J

Jeff B

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey, new to this forum. Been watching and reading for a while and thought it is well worth the plunge. My current bike is a 1975 wr 250. Great bike! has everything I wanted for a vintage legal cross country bike. (1974 like design...250 mag) Uppipe, reed valve, mzb ..now, DC plastics high breather...it works with modifications, mikuni conversion...starts easy. It was all stock when I got it. Including the shocks. Had the motor done including new rod and new LA Sleeve back to original bore. Not asking questions right now, just an introduction. Always looking for ways that I can improve it, so any suggestions will be welcome. Thanks Jeff
 
Jeff B said:
Hey, new to this forum. Been watching and reading for a while and thought it is well worth the plunge. My current bike is a 1975 wr 250. Great bike! has everything I wanted for a vintage legal cross country bike. (1974 like design...250 mag) Uppipe, reed valve, mzb ..now, DC plastics high breather...it works with modifications, mikuni conversion...starts easy. It was all stock when I got it. Including the shocks. Had the motor done including new rod and new LA Sleeve back to original bore. Not asking questions right now, just an introduction. Always looking for ways that I can improve it, so any suggestions will be welcome. Thanks Jeff
Click to expand...
Welcome Jeff! Great bunch here.
 
sounds like you have a pretty good start! a good rebuildable fully adjustable set of shocks with springs set for your weight, along with maybe the the fork being sprung for you or dialed in would be good mods.
 
Hi Jeff, glad you joined the site!

Quote: "Always looking for ways that I can improve it, so any suggestions will be welcome."
Pictures and a description of the type of riding/racing you're doing will increase the likelihood of suggestions. Always like to see what changes others have found helpful to them. We love pictures.
 
Welcome
This is a great site with a great amount of help, without most of the Bu***it found elsewhere.
 
Actually bought the bike in 2009. I've tried Works shocks on another bike, now on the WR, I'm using 13.5 inch (stock 12 inch) Progressive. I can't tell that much difference. When you only have 4-5 inches of travel, it gets harder to tell good from average. On my modern KTM, I've been using Perelli Scorpion intermediate front and Kenda Millville rear. I like that combo, so that is what have been using for several years. It now has an aluminum mx tank. Proform pipe with DG hanging off the back. I have thought about a different reed block. What do most people do to mount a mikuni . I made a sleeve for the back of the carb out of a mountain bike innertube. It goes on but it is tight. I bought stiffer fork springs from Vintage Husky. Ordered modified damper rods from John. All I could see was holes drilled bigger and top out spring removed and rubber piece from newer forks put on instead. One of the best mods was a 400 cross front wheel with the larger brake shoes. I have a small machine shop in my garage so I can make spacers and bushings as needed. I noticed that the rear brake used a lot of adjustment even with new shoes. That changes the pivot point and you can loose leverage. I machined a fatter brake cam so that when new shoes are installed, it spreads the shoes a little farther apart. Husky doesn't use splines so you can't move the arm. Cross country is all I do with this bike, but I'm going to try trials. Jeff
 

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Jeff, In reference to the carb mount on your bike, heres a link to an Autozone radiator hose that another member found would work, and it only cost 10 bucks. If you're thinking about a different reed block then check out Ebay for any used late model 70 Husky reed valves that used a stock Mikuni carb. To my knowledge the late 70's 360 and 390 intakes are the same as your 74 250 and all you really need is the reed plate with rubber flange-boot that connect to the carb.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-8gddz?itemIdentifier=885483_0_0_
 
Crashaholic said:
Jeff, In reference to the carb mount on your bike, heres a link to an Autozone radiator hose that another member found would work, and it only cost 10 bucks. If you're thinking about a different reed block then check out Ebay for any used late model 70 Husky reed valves that used a stock Mikuni carb. To my knowledge the late 70's 360 and 390 intakes are the same as your 74 250 and all you really need is the reed plate with rubber flange-boot that connect to the carb.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-8gddz?itemIdentifier=885483_0_0_
Click to expand...
Hello again Crash. Got my 250 wr back together with your incouragement, totally flooded it and bruised instep kicking so much but it did fire and tried to run momentarily. What is this hose mod to connect a Mikuni you speak of? Pat
 
The hose I mentioned was to connect a Mikuni to the stock Husky intake manifold. You said you were using a bicycle tube, were you actually talking about the other end of the carb where it slides into the air cleaner housing?
 
Sorry..the mountain bike inner tube gasket is on the back end...goes into the bell. However...the "o" ring set-up looks better I don't like the inner tube set-up, but it works. For some reason, the inner tube beaks down with time. Carb removal is simple. I remove the carb and air bell as one unit. The "o" rings are better suited for the job I would think. Jeff
 
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