• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New TXC310 break in suggestions?

fire1998

fire1998

Husqvarna
AA Class
I just bought a 2013 TXC 310. Picked it up for $5500 out the door. First new 4 stroke bike I've ever owned. How should I break the bike in? I've read some guys switch out oil to Dino oil for break in. Is this necessary? What weight oil for break in? Any other suggestions for doing this right?
 
Congratulations on an outstanding deal. IMO there is no reason to run mineral oil during break in. Modern engines are just fine with synthetic for first fill. I'd just follow the instructions in the manual and take it easy the first 4 hours our so, change the oil and have at it.
 
I agree with joedirt, get the bike nice and warm, then ride it like you stole it!! Or at the very least once its warm ride it like you normally would, then dump the oil after the first ride, I've done this with all my bikes, last time was 6 weeks ago on a 2012 TC 250 and have never had a problem.

Bike break in threads are like which oil threads, everyonenhas their own preferred method.
It's your bike, do what you feel comfortable with.
 
The advice I got from my dealer was to ride it (310) normally, just don't hold it wide open for any length of time.

My GF broke a 250 in on the weekend. She opted for the "take it easy for 4 hours" as recommended by Husky.

FYI, I rode the 250 with 3km on the odo and it wasn't making much power. Rode it again at about the 50km mark and it was a different bike. Lots of fun.

Check the oil level before riding it too. Half way up the sight glass is good.
 
My break in was the motorman style at MX track. Hard acceleration and hard deceleration with engine braking. Dumped the original oil before break in and used 10-40 conventional oil changed after the first 30 minutes and then next hour, two hours, four hours etc. At 16 hours I went to synthetic oil.
 
Ride normally. If you baby it you loose the opportunity for everything to wear in correctly. Make sure to accelerate and decelerate don't just stay at one speed. Avoid revving it out and avoid sustained high speed. Don't really need to change to mineral oil.
 
Tinken Do the xlites come with fully synthetic or mineral oil from the factory?
There is a school of thought that fully synthetic in a new motor is bad news,
glazed bores **************************************** I've ordered a 310 so your input will be useful. Scotty
 
Manual says Castrol Power 1 racing which is full synthetic. That is why I changed mine before break in.
 
Don't use mineral oil for break in. :naughty:

Actually synthetic is normally thinner, which increases flow, cooling, reduces glazing and it clings to parts better.
Think of break-in as polishing and the main thing you are polishing is your cylinder. You are literally grinding your parts smooth and this creates more heat than normal. This extra heat causes accelerated heat expansion, tolerance and cooling issues and is why I wouldn't suggest the hard break in method. Ride it normally and change your oil often. If you see it running hot, let it cool awhile before you start again.
 
goes to show you how different people can feel about the break in. george at up-tite suggest's mineral oil and a long slow break in. only after it's broke in, go to the syn route. did it with both of mine, have no complaints..... TC 250 & SMR450RR factory motard...
 
Crap......havnt had time to ride bike. Ive got about 25 minutes on bike around my track. I have a race On Sunday and wont have time to ride it before. Should I race bike or just park it and race my WR290f? Plan on holding on to TXC for a few years so want to treat her right. Race is a pretty fast grass track with a long high speed sand section mixed in.
 
Just take the 290 for now if you're uncomfortable. I wouldn't race it just yet. There's still plenty of season left to get trophies ;)
 
The hell with it...Im racing Husky. Got another 15 minutes of break in time on it. Rode the WR after and the TXC just feels so much lighter and responsive. The only thing Im going to miss is my Scotts damper. BRP was backordered.on post. I havnt ridden a bike without a stabilizer in 10 years. Got sag set close so hopefully the TXC doesnt shake to much on me. Changed the oil and installed a Turntech battery. Weighs less than pound. Ride report coming Sunday night!
 
Motosportz steering damper is supposed to have a Scott's feel if I remember right. Good luck with the race, make sure you hurry up with that report :)
 
I'm going from an'09 WR300 with a Scott's to a '12TXC310 without one. Only have about 6-7 hours on it but feel the damper might not be needed. It'll probably get one but it's not uncomfortable w/o. Don't have rocks to need one but these dang Palmetto roots sure test out the forks down here...
 
Well.......rode TXC 1 lap and parked her. Suspension was just too harsh and unsettled, especially forks. Course started in silty/sandy tight tree section. Lots of braking bumps and whoops. Transitioned into a sand wash. First set of whoops in sand wash bike knifed and down I went. Course then tuned into a long silty and slick grass track. Forks were beating me and front end was all over the place at the higher speeds. Missed my Scott's Damper!! Bright spots were the motor and light feeling of bike. Motor was simply sweet!! After lap 1, I switched to my WR as I'm not chasing points. WR felt heavier and slower handling but I had confidence in the suspension. Also having the Damper on made the braking bumps and sand wash a lot easier. Wish I could have ridden the 310 longer but did not have confidence in the suspension to push it. Tuesday Ill pull suspension off and send it out to get revalved. I think I need a 6.0 or 6.4 spring in rear and .48's in front?? I'm 6'4" and 195 lbs or so. Trying to decide whether to send to ZipTy or my regular local guy. He's done great wok on my other bikes. Another ride report after I get suspension working for me.
Later
 
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