• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Not a good day... and fuel system questions!

D

DRCA

Husqvarna
A Class
So yesterday I worked late on the my new (to me!) 2011 TE310 to get ready for my first ride with it today.

The bike came with a large capacity tank installed on it which I really don't care for (too big, too heavy, don't need that much capacity and the plastics and seat don't fit correctly when it's installed). So during the week I spent the evening fitting the standard tank on the bike (what a pain!) and yesterday evening while giving the bike a once over I realized that the tank was leaking!!! :mad::mad: :mad: Not much, just a trickle at the back of the tank. I took it out (did I mention it was a pain****************************************) and realized that one one the thread insert that is used for the bumper at the rear of the tank had been repaired and apparently not very well causing the leak! :thumbsdown:

So, big tank goes back on... have to transfer the fuel pump, etc... put it back on... fill with fuel... ignition on... put the start button.... no go! Starter turns over but bike doesn't fire:cry: . I peek inside the tank and see that the hose connecting to the pump to the fuel filter had popped out. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Drain the tank, take it off (did I mention it was a pain?), pull the fuel pump out... fix the hose connection, put it all back together... put the tank back on the bike, put just enough fuel in it to cover the fuel pump... stab the start button... success!!!:banana:

By now it's pretty late in the night, so I head out to bed.

This morning after a few hours of sleep I load the bike and my gear and head off to the riding area.

Unload the bike, start it up... works fine. Let it idle to warm up and start to get my gear out of the truck... bike dies. :confused:

From there it went downhill... When I tried to restart it, it fired up for 1/2 second and died. Giving it a little throttle... didn't help. Tried for a while, drained the battery... time to go home! :censored:

So now I am back to trying to diagnose what's going on. Back to basics, I have to check it there is gas, air and spark.

For the gas part, when I turn the ignition on, the fuel pump starts whining, so I assume that this part works. I have drained the tank and taken it off the bike. The question is how do I test that the right amount of fuel pressure comes out of the tank? How much should it be? I assume more than a trickle (otherwise why put a fuel pump?). How does one test for it?

Also, I looked at the 2011 TE310 parts diagrams on www.italhusky.com and could not find the fuel pump / filter assembly anywhere (all the crap that's inside the tank). Any pointers would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
Denis
 
Here is a quick update...

Yesterday I spent some time investigating the problem which included taking apart the fuel pump assembly from inside the tank. and here is what i found:

Screenshot - 5_16_2016 , 8_44_17 AM.png

Cracked hose right before the filter, so no fuel pressure out to the throttle body. No wonder!!!

But, my question is why wasn't the fuel pump running all the time once the ignition was on?
 
Computer controlled. The pump "primes" for a few seconds then shuts off until the stator pick up sends voltage to the Computer to tell it the engine is turning.

That hose that split is the wrong hose is as the clamps. Someone must have replaced it at some point.

You need Submersible fuel hose, probably 5/8" and FI rated clamps. Those are regular hose clamps.

Gates makes the hose and it is expensive...like $20.
 
R_Little said:
Computer controlled. The pump "primes" for a few seconds then shuts off until the stator pick up sends voltage to the Computer to tell it the engine is turning.

That hose that split is the wrong hose is as the clamps. Someone must have replaced it at some point.

You need Submersible fuel hose, probably 5/8" and FI rated clamps. Those are regular hose clamps.

Gates makes the hose and it is expensive...like $20.
Click to expand...

Ouch! Looks like Gates only has 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 so I guess I'll go for a 5/8. Since I need it now... I've found it locally but you don't want to know the price!!!

Still looking for the clamps I can get ASAP.

Looking around I actually found a very good thread on this:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-te310-fuel-pump-assy-pics-and-p-ns.25761/

Yeah!!!
 
Not only do you need 50psi rated fuel line, it also must be submersible. 90% of fuel lines will NOT be rated for submersion.
 
Different strokes as I would not own another carb bike, I find EFI more tunable, more reliable, more power regardless of elevation or temperature and better milage out of the piddly little tank...
Ya just gotta spend the time understanding it, just like with carbs.
 
The replacement hose on that pump is rubber probably J30R7 rated which is not submersible and probably why it ruptured.

BTW, the hose that comes with the CalCycleWorks pump kit is J30R7 and is not submersible.

You need J30R10 if you use a rubber hose and it costs about $20 per foot.

The other stock lines are plastic/nylon and I think you can get them pretty cheap, but you might want to make sure you buy submersible nylon corrugated FI hose.
I don't know if there is a difference for in tank use. They go on with heat.

I think Husky just used nylon hose stock because it was cheaper..

I just bought some Dorman 5/16" nylon fuel line, or I might try to reuse the stock hose by reheating it.
 
joedirt said:
i think ca cycleworks fuel pump comes with the proper hose.
http://ca-cycleworks.com/ca-cycleworks-products/fuel-pumps/ktm-husqvarna-husaberg-fuel-pumps/fp-hus
Click to expand...

Well they upgraded it. Mine is a couple years old and has a rubber hose.
The one I have is market J30R7...not submersible.

The new one looks good. Thanks Joe! I'm going to ask them to send me a new one!

I'd love to know if the nylon heat shrink hose works in the tank.

It's way cheaper than J30R10 hose which is $20 per foot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top