• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

O2 sensor

nep2012

nep2012

Husqvarna
A Class
It seems to me if you "power up" a Te 310 which from what I understand is removing the O2 sensor, and something from the air filter you are asking for trouble. Without the O2 sensor I would think the bike will not consistantly run properly. I would think in order to remove the O2 sensor you would also have to get a txc ECU and a 12 point injector. I would think the Te is set up to run with the O2 sensor and simply taking it off without changing the ECU would cause problems. Am I wrong? I am getting ready to upgrade to the TXC ECU and get the 12 point injector. Everybody says the bike will run like a normal bike with those upgrades.
 
Without the power up it won't pull grandma out of bed. Might as well have a 230L for the easier maintenance. The bike is powered down to meet legal standards not engineering requirements. The key to the power up is the ECU. Mine had a new resister that plugs in. Your's may do it just by removing the O2 sensor. I don't know. Anyway, the ECU is changed to run BETTER without the O2 sensor, with the more open air intake and without the cat in the exhaust. Pull that junk off.
 
Do yourself a favor, call ZipTy Racing and talk to them about de-restricting your bike. They race these bikes and also run a fleet of them as desert tour bikes. Do what they tell you to do and you will be HAPPY!
www.ziptyracing.com
 
Yes, you are wrong. On your 2012 TE310, by removing the O2 sensor and installing the jumper, you shift the ECU into race map mode, and open up two available fuel/spark maps, Race Map 1, and Race Map 2. That said, TXC ECU and 12-port injector is the way to go. Worthwhile to have a copy of the Mikuni iBeat software as well.
 
Mike-AK said:
Yes, you are wrong. On your 2012 TE310, by removing the O2 sensor and installing the jumper, you shift the ECU into race map mode, and open up two available fuel/spark maps, Race Map 1, and Race Map 2. That said, TXC ECU and 12-port injector is the way to go. Worthwhile to have a copy of the Mikuni iBeat software as well.
Click to expand...
thank you for the info
 
shilo020 said:
Without the power up it won't pull grandma out of bed. Might as well have a 230L for the easier maintenance. The bike is powered down to meet legal standards not engineering requirements. The key to the power up is the ECU. Mine had a new resister that plugs in. Your's may do it just by removing the O2 sensor. I don't know. Anyway, the ECU is changed to run BETTER without the O2 sensor, with the more open air intake and without the cat in the exhaust. Pull that junk off.
Click to expand...
thanks for the info
 
shilo020 said:
Without the power up it won't pull grandma out of bed. Might as well have a 230L for the easier maintenance. The bike is powered down to meet legal standards not engineering requirements. The key to the power up is the ECU. Mine had a new resister that plugs in. Your's may do it just by removing the O2 sensor. I don't know. Anyway, the ECU is changed to run BETTER without the O2 sensor, with the more open air intake and without the cat in the exhaust. Pull that junk off.
Click to expand...
thanks for the info. I did have the dealer do the power up. On and off I deal with popping/stalling and rubber boot coming off throttle body due to back pressure. Raised the idle and am using liquid performance fuel treatment bike is running better.
 
What rear sprocket are you running, and is the cat still in the mid pipe? Did the dealer swap out the filter cage?
 
Mike-AK said:
What rear sprocket are you running, and is the cat still in the mid pipe? Did the dealer swap out the filter cage?
Click to expand...
He did the complete power up. I went up to a 50 tooth on the rear. he did swap filter cage and as far as I know he did remove the cat. Soon I am taking bike to get new rubber, the txc ecu and 12 point, also might go down to a 48 or 47 on the rear. Check valves and mapping also. We do a lot of open trail riding more high speed stuff as the bunch of us are of a more seasoned older age. 40-50 mph and some asphalt to connect trails hence the change to a smaller rear sprocket,
 
nep2012 said:
He did the complete power up. I went up to a 50 tooth on the rear. he did swap filter cage and as far as I know he did remove the cat. Soon I am taking bike to get new rubber, the txc ecu and 12 point, also might go down to a 48 or 47 on the rear. Check valves and mapping also. We do a lot of open trail riding more high speed stuff as the bunch of us are of a more seasoned older age. 40-50 mph and some asphalt to connect trails hence the change to a smaller rear sprocket,
Click to expand...


Put an FMF header and silencer on it along with the TXC ECU and 12-port injector and you'll really notice a difference. After that it will just lug out of places you had to downshift before.
 
nep2012 said:
thanks for the info. I did have the dealer do the power up. On and off I deal with popping/stalling and rubber boot coming off throttle body due to back pressure. Raised the idle and am using liquid performance fuel treatment bike is running better.
Click to expand...
I'm confused as to how the power-up could increase backpressure in the intake tract. We did the full power-up on my son's 2012 TE310, and have had no issues at all with popping/stalling, nor issues with the intake boot. Sounds to me like something else is going on. While iBeats would be nice, it's not absolutely necessary; we made no changes to the mapping, and the bike runs great, even with California's shitty gas, although we do make sure to always run Premium.

The 12-point injector and TXE ECU is on the wish list, but my son is basically a novice, so the current power is more than enough anyway, and it still keeps me smiling when I take it for a ride as well.
 
Backfiring and rubber intake boot seperation is caused by tight intake valves not sealing and pushing exhaust gases back through the throttle body. I've had it happen twice on my bike.

Adjust your intakes to 6 thou and exhausts to 8 thou.
 
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