• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Oh sheit!! now what

R

RickyDZero

Husqvarna
AA Class
Last summer a friend of mine was helping me change oil on my TC 250 and he over tightened the screws that holds the oil filter and they stripped out. So I had them helicoiled. I noticed they were getting looser and looser after each oil change I did, well today they stripped again and now it leaks oil. Help ! what do I do now?
 
If the bolt or female threads stripped (I'm thinking not likely) use a new bolt or put a new helicoil in. If the helicoil stripped out of the case, MIG weld, drill/bore, re-thread/tap. watch the mating surfaces.

you might be able to get a time-sert in there if there's enough meat left- but you're gonna hafta get it below the mating surface (which is usually not a problem).

and re-calibrate your wrist maybe? I use a 8mm nut driver to insert these bolts and 80% of the other fasteners on my bike (I frikken hate T-wrenches BTW) because it makes it harder- but not impossible, for me to over-torque 'em (torque reqs on the oil filter cover are pretty light: 5.5Nm or 4ft/lbs... call it 48inch/pounds).

good luck.
 
Thanks for the help Trenchcoat. I have seen what they call a keensert which sounds like what you are writing about with the time-sert, but like you said is there enough meat to do such a thing? By the time you drill and tap the key-sert, it looks like it will be pretty thin.
 
RickyDZero said:
Thanks for the help Trenchcoat. I have seen what they call a keensert which sounds like what you are writing about with the time-sert, but like you said is there enough meat to do such a thing? By the time you drill and tap the key-sert, it looks like it will be pretty thin.
Click to expand...

yep you're right. But the time-sert is pretty thin-walled compared to a heli-coil or keen-sert. look it up for your 6mm 5mm? bolt; you might have a chance. Time-Sert

You may end up having to do the weld & re-drill thang. As noted on another thread, if the welder or machinist does it engine-in-the-bike, remove your ECU and maybe your regulator beforehand.
 
Hey guys, problem solved. The stripped bolt was not helicoiled like I payed for,:banghead: now it is and holds great. Still leaks a little,but the O-ring is flat. So I ordered a new one from bills. (Be here fri or Sat)
 
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