• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Ohlins Bottom Eye Removal

L

Larsa

Husqvarna
A Class
Guys,
Frame on my 430 resto coming together nicely and time for the rear suspension..

I threw my old Betor away and bought som nice ohlins instead from a friendly chap in Sweden which I am currently rebuilding. Got beat on removing the bottom mounting eye (need to change to another length) despite playing all regular tricks (heat/anger/bad language).

Anyone aware of a voodoo trick to get these off or should I just go with the my second gameplan of cracking them?

Thanks!
Lars
 
Thanks!
I would gladly send these out to anyone capable of doing them right. Blasted/painted the springs already, but the rest remains. Unfortunately bike budget is becoming an issue since I found some bad problems with the cases/gears so I will probably have to go 'lean' on the shocks for now and maybe do a better job later.

I will tune up the burner and have another go at it!

Lars
 
You have the dual shock with the hemi joints don't you? For those I have had to weld little beads across the outside of the bottom eye to make them tight enough. The welding makes things contract. I made a piece that allows pressure to go on the outer ring of the hemi joint and not the ball part. Probably just used a big c clamp, tightened it up and then gave it a hit with a hammer. A good sized (75+lbs) vice should have plenty of force if you had one those.

Fran
 
Use an arbor press or hydraulic press with a drift pin to fit the inner diameter of the shock eyelet. If you can't get you hands on a pin, try using a threaded bolt that fits through the heim joint. Push it all the way through and from the opposite side install a washer (if you find one to fit the diameter of shock eyelet the also fits over bolt) and thread on a nut. Put it in the press, apply the ram and it should come out. Pay attention to the distance from the shock eyelet shoulder to the heim joint before you remove it as you'll have to reinstall new heim to the same distance.

If you don't have a press or know someone with a press, you can also use a short piece of pipe, a longer threaded rod and set it up so the pipe is your press against the shock eyelet, place the threaed rod through the pipe and eyelet, install washer and nut as described above and on the rod end protruding from the pipe, a washer larger than the pipe opening and second nut. Then tighten that nut and it should start to pull the heim joint towards and eventually into the pipe. Yeah, not an easy to convey concept so I hope that made sense.
 
good info on heim removal but I believe he was having trouble getting the entire lower mounting eye off of the shaft.
 
Joe Chod said:
good info on heim removal but I believe he was having trouble getting the entire lower mounting eye off of the shaft.
Click to expand...

I suppose you are right.

Get two copper bars and a relatively small shim to put between them. Select a drill or drill bit as you choose to call them the same size as the shock shaft. Drill a hole right down the middle of the clamped stack. Remove the shim pieces clean up a bit and install in a vice the two copper bars with half circle dents around the shock shaft. I think I basically described what is in the manual. As for the later stuff with the dampening adjustment going through it may well be different.

fran
 
Now thats a good one Fran...never thought of that myself probably because it is so obvious. Clamp around shaft and viola..no turning. LOL!
 
Thanks Guys for the info.

-Frank, that was not a bad idea, I did something similar altohugh not to the best of accuraccy...still unable to avoid turning the shafts

Tried to heat it/lube it repeatadly to a level where it was really hot, but was unable to get them off anyways.

So bad language again...

Then I decided to machine a small slot in it and then drove a tiny crack in it at the thread. Then It came off by hand and I could exhange it.

Felt so bad about it I welded the crack so it can be used again if I need to.
 
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