• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Oil change glitch

Ziggy

Ziggy

Husqvarna
AA Class
The allen key is turning in the head of the drain screw. Ouch.

I'll remove the block in which it sits. Can the brains trust tell me which side hose is going to spew? I'm thinking the right side.

TIA.
 
Ziggy said:
... which side hose is going to spew? I'm thinking the right side.

TIA.
Click to expand...

Most likely both!
The tank feeds the left side of the block.
Maybe time to fit one of those?
Husky_096.JPG





Husky_095.JPG
 
Ziggy said:
Yeah, looks the goods.
Click to expand...

Does the trick.
It's just some fittings and a piece of heat-resistant/ oil-resistant hose from Pirtek with a stop-cap on the other end, cable-tied to the crash bars.
No mess and a 10mm socket to remove the cap.
 
leave the plug alone, just open the left or right hose clamp and pull the hose off to drain the oil.
 
I was able to hold the block outwards with some tie wire, wedge a rag over the engine, wire one of those large 3 piece funnels into place and remove the right side hose. Caught the lot. Most of the flow comes from the left side.
 
that's how i do it too. Now after some oil changes even without making a mess...

Don't forget to pull the oil sieve out of the frame (at the left end of that oil hose) to clean it every now and then (10k km i think)Capture.PNG .
 
Thanks for the heads-up.

Well I spoke too soon. The rag was wicking oil and dropping it into the bash plate. A surprising amount.

I'll give the Husky the gong for the messiest oil change. The filter housing spews a goodly amount out and the crankcase bolt helps to coat the bashplate. A three rag job!
 
Ziggy said:
Thanks for the heads-up.

Well I spoke too soon. The rag was wicking oil and dropping it into the bash plate. A surprising amount.

I'll give the Husky the gong for the messiest oil change. The filter housing spews a goodly amount out and the crankcase bolt helps to coat the bashplate. A three rag job!
Click to expand...


icon_whistle_.gif


If the bashplate is a B+B, it only takes 4 Allen bolts to remove (it pays to get some 8.8s though, the stuff that comes with the B+B plate is cheese).
I tend to drain the top first, then the sump-plug and the filter last to minimize the amount of oil in the filter housing.
 
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